doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stopping Surface Pitting on Damascus

Thanks, guys - I'm going to try to dig up some NU FINISH at Pep Boys or some other car joint. It sounds promising. TwiceB - Do you use the NU FINISH with 0000 steel or bronze wool, or do you apply it AFTER you've rubbed the rusted spots away?

And Joe, that Bar Keeper's Friend is another odd find. Amazing that it should work as well as you say, but what do I know from one chemical to the next. You said I could find it in grocery stores - what section?

Drew - Thanks for the links. I'd saved the second one quite awhile back, but the first was new to me and full of surprises as well.

If the patena is just a stain you can seal it with the Nu Finish if you like which will stabalize the stain and prevent further oxidation. If the oxidation is starting to work into the finish and create pits you can remove the "crusty" oxidation with bronze wool and then apply the Nu Finish.

As I remember the last time I bought Nu Finish I found it at O'Riley's auto parts store but Pep Boys should carry it also.

Good luck

I've noticed after cleaning rusty old guns with 0000 steel wool and oil that if I spray the "cleaned" metal with WD-40 or CRC or other penetrating/polarizing type oils, a lot more rust is loosened up. I have read that you should avoid these types of oils when first oiling a new rust blue or brown because they may remove some of the fresh black or brown oxides you worked so hard to get. Also, over the years I have read numerous tests of gun oils where they would degrease nails or steel strips and then test various oils. RIG gun grease always scored high in long term corrosion protection and it has performed very well for me. Since it seems you don't actually have any pitting, you have very little to worry about as long as it is cleaned and stored properly.

Yes Keith, what I'm dealing with is more of a "staining" nature. Like a splatterinfg of blackish dots on a silvered section of the browned damascus. They're smooth to the touch, no sign of "eating away" - the bores look wonderful, no pitting or staining of any kind. There is one exception and I can't remember if I mentioned it. the very edge of the left barrel has a rough spot, about 3/8" where I'd have to say is pitting. I don't know if this will affect the shot coming out or not. I suppose I could work up the courage to try to "sand" it away with some fine steel wool or bronze wool and oil. Haven't had much luck finding fine bronze wool, or any bronze wool to speak of, so I may be backed into a corner and have to use 0000 steel wool. Checked Lowes, no-go. Suggestions for this prescious material?

TwiceB - I got a bottle of Nu Finish at Pep Boys earlier this evening; it felt like a great "score"! More and more I'm warming to the idea of just keeping the spots in check so they don't turn the corner and become bonafide pits. The aesthetic issues can be addressed at a later time.

The thing that was dogging me before is the fact that, yes, it is a Purdey, and so much of it is soooo beautiful I felt it a sin to not have the barrels look their best. I mean that's how good condition most of the gun is. Re-browned barrels would NOT stick out in the least. But the longer I have the gun, the more I want to just take care of things in accord with basic needs so I don't have to worry about deteriation and concentrate more on working up loads for the damn thing, which I thnk most if not all of you have been driving at all along.

Boy, I sure get long-winded when the evening plunges into night. I'll stop now by giving thanks to all of you who've offered sound advice and help. Good night - Marc

Check with some of the fine woodworking places, like Garrett Wade, Woodworker's Supply, Rockler, or Constantine's. Guys who work with oak do not use steel wool because the residue reacts with the tannins and stains the wood, so the woodworking places are more likely to have other products.

As an alternative, you can try one of the small stainless steel cleaning pads from the hardware or grocery store. Recommended by Ivory Beads for cleaning up fine guns without surface damage. I use them and they work. Use oil with the pad.

If the rusting is 'live' it could be the result of salts in the pores of the metal which have never been neutralised.

As a matter of course, I ALWAYS soak my newly browned or blacked barrels in a weak solution of sodium hydroxide in distilled or rain water - about 1oz in 12 litres warmed to about 70 deg C. If this is not done one can get 'after-rusting' as described in Angier's book.

I am not suggesting that these rust spots are classic 'after-rusting' but the treatment might be useful in your circumstances, providing the surface is carefully degreased.

As long as you ensure that the solution is not allowed to exceed 80 deg C (or it may black brown damascus and turn blacking fox red if there are any carbonates in the solution), your ribs are sound and you dry off the inside and out of your tubes afterwards and apply a good quality oil coating, I can not see it doing any harm and it should stop any further rusting.

I do as Toby has suggested and it kills it dead after I had after rusting on some Damascus barrels. Works a treat and as suggested good oiling afterwards and it's halted all of mine..

T

Again, many thanks for all the ideas/suggestions/game plans contributed.