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Apr 29th, 2024
Thread Like Summary
bushveld, earlyriser, LeFusil, mark, mc, Stanton Hillis, Ted Schefelbein
Total Likes: 21
Original Post (Thread Starter)
#639801 12/23/2023 4:26 PM
by Dtm
Dtm
I have recently acquired a Crescent 12 bore and the fore end iron is loose on the under barrel lug. It is the type of retainer which uses a lever-like latch rather than friction and spring pressure to hold the iron to the barrels.

Any ideas for how best to snug this so it doesn’t rattle about?
Liked Replies
#639827 Dec 24th a 01:25 AM
by LeFusil
LeFusil
Originally Posted by mark
Remove the wood from the iron, place the iron on an anvil, strike the iron with a rounded punch at the rear of loop hole. Try it on the gun, repeat if necessary. If it is really bad ad a drop of metal with a welder.

Sweet baby Jesus don’t let JimmyW or BrentD see this post!
5 members like this
#639826 Dec 24th a 01:05 AM
by mark
mark
Remove the wood from the iron, place the iron on an anvil, strike the iron with a rounded punch at the rear of loop hole. Try it on the gun, repeat if necessary. If it is really bad ad a drop of metal with a welder.
2 members like this
#639831 Dec 24th a 03:37 AM
by mc
mc
You tighten the forend iron off the gun on an anvil ,I made an oval punch you strike it and check on the gun against the loup.
2 members like this
#639833 Dec 24th a 03:48 AM
by LeFusil
LeFusil
Many forend irons already have the “mark” on them for when they were initially fitted up to the barrels, loop & action. When you turn the iron over, there will be a line type mark….thats the mark left when the forend was peened….if it’s there already and the forend iron needs snugged up, this mark is where you place your punch.
2 members like this
#640129 Dec 31st a 02:42 PM
by damascus
damascus
Like many engineering processes there is always another method and I was very surprised that Jack Rowe did not mention it in those Midway videos. Maybe he wanted to keep this method in the dark well it was used to solve the fore end problem on top maker guns especially if the barrel fore end anchor point was replaced or removed for some reason. It is simple and not that obvious to the eye so it does not stand out like a punch mark. Being simple though the down side is that it is not as quick as a punch a little more work is needed. Remove fore end wood from the Iron fit the Iron onto the barrels to ascertain where the gap needs to be removed. Now that you can see where you need to take up the slack you extend the fore end iron slot buy a quarter of an inch next file up a piece of steel that will enter the slot having a small amount extending into the original slot, heat to bright red push into the slot you have made and rivet it with a hammer top and bottom, then fit iron to the gun by removing the extra metal that is now in the iron slot . Clean and polish the area apply some instant blue or just heat the area gently until you reach the desired colour. If done carefully this method leaves no marks on the Iron and no signs of the added metal.
1 member likes this
#640269 Jan 3rd a 10:59 PM
by Der Ami
Der Ami
Mark's method is the "school solution" and the "punch" is easy to make, just grind the end of a small cold chisel to a rounded profile while keeping it cool and polish it. There should be no mark on the side that is visible. This can make the gun a little hard to open, but it will wear in after some use.
Mike
1 member likes this
#640409 Jan 6th a 09:04 PM
by Der Ami
Der Ami
Stan,
I don't have one on hand, I just used one in Walter Grass' shop, and I think he has passed on. If I had a need for one, I would just take a cold chisel, about as wide as the forearm iron, and round off /polish the chisel edge so it would pein rather than cut the metal.
Mike
1 member likes this
#640429 Jan 7th a 01:31 AM
by Mark II
Mark II
As wide as the slot
1 member likes this
#640452 Jan 7th a 05:01 PM
by Der Ami
Der Ami
Stan,
I wouldn't be surprised to learn that some gunsmiths used a punch only as wide as the slot (making a bulge within the slot), but the ones I learned from were of the "school" that used a punch about as wide as the whole iron on the breach side of the slot. This had the effect of stretching the iron, moving the slot itself toward muzzle. Keep in mind that only a few thousandths of an inch movement are necessary.
Mike
1 member likes this
#640621 Jan 10th a 08:41 PM
by LeFusil
LeFusil
These forend irons are off of two British guns. A Greener G gun that I bought for parts and a Charles Osborne that I’m currently working on. These pics are of the underside of the irons, showing where the factory “peen” marks are that were made by a shaped punch and a heavy hammer when fitting up the forend irons and then used for subsequent tightening.

Osborne
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

Greener
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]
1 member likes this
#640650 Jan 11th a 11:27 AM
by Stanton Hillis
Stanton Hillis
Thanks a bunch, Dustin, for those pics. That perfectly illustrates the process. A picture truly can be worth a thousand words.
1 member likes this
#640663 Jan 11th a 06:23 PM
by Der Ami
Der Ami
Stan,
Maybe it a difference between common British shop practice and common German shop practice.
Mike
1 member likes this
#640676 Jan 11th a 11:53 PM
by mc
mc
American guns are adjusted the same way as Dustin is showing in the pictures.
1 member likes this
#640641 Jan 11th a 01:51 AM
by LeFusil
LeFusil
Originally Posted by Fudd
Originally Posted by LeFusil
Greener
[Linked Image from i.ibb.co]

That salvo of ball-peen marks, though... Any idea what that's all about?

Have no idea. This was a strictly a parts gun. It’s over 125 years old. No idea why it has those marks. I was posting pics to show people what the forend tightening peen marks looks like. Disregard all of the other things going on….concentrate on the red arrows. There’s obviously not that many folks here that know what marks to look for, where they’re located and how they are used as a landmark in the trade to tighten a forend.
1 member likes this

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