...and what(first aid, dog support stuff) to put in my vest while out in the field?

This will be my first outing with my pup and I'm going out of state. So, I'm looking for some advice from you savy dog owners to put together my first aid and field bag. I've had horses and generally the bandage, antiseptic, and vet wrap stuff, I have.

I wasn't going to boot her up for this hunt in SD cornfields and slews. She's on Frontline and has her shots. Am I forgetting anything?

One thing that I value above most anything else is a saline IV solution. It can be administered by anyone subcutaneously and is the easiest, fastest way to get fluids in a dangerously dehydrated dog.

Getting an IV bag is a bit difficult. Some vets will give one to a good customer, but not always.

Brent

"It can be administered by anyone subcutaneously and is the easiest, fastest way to get fluids in a dangerously dehydrated dog."

I would try pouring it in the dogs' mouth. If you administer it subcutaneously you will probably have to tie him down first and it will probably cause a lot of yelping on his part and just dribble out anyway.

If you want to hydrate the dog, use pedialyte. You can buy it in liquid or powdered form. If you don't have any, you can simply mix some salt and sugar in the water. The intravenous hydration is meant for a dog that is seriously dehydrated. They look a bit like a camel when the treatment is finished.

I carry some betadine, kaopectate, forceps, hydrogen peroxide (to induce vomitting(mixed with water)), etc. Also a length of surgical tubing. It can serve many uses. The biggest concerns will be heat and barbed wire. Carry bottled water on you and water the dog down on a regular basis. A few years ago, on opening day, the temperature hit in the 80's. A number of dogs died from heat stroke.

I have a bag in the truck for the dogs and myself, in case. Look at the area where you will hunting. Find the name and number of 2 vets close by. Keep those in the bag as well.

I would have the dog vaccinated for Lyme disease. While not as common in SD as here in IL, there are more cases in SD than in your home state.

Pete

Vitamin C in case of Snake bite.

http://www.lowchensaustralia.com/vitc.htm

It saved my buddys dog from a rattle snake bite to the muzzle.
L.F.

EMT Gel! Saved the life of one of my dogs who clipped an artery on a piece of fence. EMT and elastic wrap got me back to the car and Vet's office for sutures. Scary, but damn glad I had the gel.

Eye wash is als very important in dry grasses. I clean the eyes carefully at the end of the hunt and usually check once mid way.

Jim

Jim,
What type of eyewash? Human type for contact wearers?

EMT Gel for cuts, tears -works as advertised.
Nylon stocking to hold sterile pads in place over ears, feet, etc.
Leatherman tool for porcupine quills.
Karo syrup for a pick me up if hypoglacemic.
Cell phone w/ preprogrammed # for vet.
Water the "two bottle rule" one for on the way out, save the other one for the way back.
Don't drink the dog's water bring your own supply for yourself.

I second emt gel.. stops bleeding fast, pedialyte for deydration and duct tape!!

Saline solution used for contact lens wearers is a good eye rinse, make sure in is not the disinfecting/storage stuff. I good pair of tweezers can also come in handy and the horse wrap that you have is also good because it does not need tape. I also like a good emergency care book that tells you some simple things you can do until you get to the vet. If an emergency is going to happen it will most likley happen when you are away or if at home on a Sunday. It also might be a good idea to find out a vet close to where you will be hunting or an E.R.for dogs.
Good luck and enjoy your time with your new best friend.

Chuck,

In all of the years of hunting and field trials the two most used first aid items are stop bleed and eye wash. I use the powdered type of stop bleed and carry it in the field. I use gauze or tape to hold it in place. A tiny nick in the ears and it will look as if the dog took his head off. They come over to you and shake their head and splatter blood all over you and your gun. Blood is the best thing in the world for taking the finish off of a nicely blued barrel. Eye wash. Any kind of sterile eye solution. K-9 type is not necessary. I check eyes many times during a hunt. Especially in heavy cover. As for the dyhydration problem it is best treated by preventing it. Most good hunting dogs will hunt untill they drop dead. It is your job to make them stop before they do damage. Heat is deadly, dogs are instinctive, we are the ones that are supposed to have the common sense. Most other first aid stuff is the same as you would have for yourself. I have had my share of field injuries. I hope you never need to use any of the first aid supplies. Good to know that you are preparing. Many dog owners never even think of the dogs health in the field. They think that they are machines the require no maintenence. Best of luck with the new partner.

Bill G.

Great plan to look after "Jazz's" welfare. Couple of thoughts. Tweezers not worth a twit if you have old eyes. don't forget a small magnifying glass. SD sand burrs are small and painful. Won't find them much in ag ground, but if your after ST grouse you might run into them. Energy bars in case your pup really outdoes herself and needs a pickup. Make sure her toes nails are clipped about a week before the trip. Jazz shouldn't be bothered much by the variety of burrs out there, but if her coat looks to be thick enough to have burrs hitch a ride, bring along a small deburring brush. I assume you have all the proper name tags with your cell number listed, flourescent vest for her. Did you get a micro chip embedded for ID? Backup whistle. Camera for braggin photos of Jazz's first year. Good luck and have a great time. Brother and I will be in SD last of November. Randy

Albertson's/Osco sells a generic 'Sav-on' 3 pack of 4 oz Non-Preserved Saline Solution. It's in a squeeze bottle that can generate a pretty good stream and is leak-proof until the cap is screwed down. I don't carry that in my vest but in the first aid kit in the vehicle and is good for irrigating eyes or lacerations.
One of my setters was prone to exertional hypoglycemia so I do carry Insta-Glucose Gel (brand name) in a 1 oz squeeze tube. It can be slowly squeezed into the mouth of the dog even if unconscious and will be absorbed through the mucosa of the mouth.
Don't forget both the home and cell phone #s on all the dog collars.
Have a great, and safe, season!

I carry a cut kit that includes a tube of antibac, teflon coated pads, tape and a desposable razor ... I also carry a small pack of butterflys ..... I carry this stuff in an old canvas dog boot that will protect an injured foot for the trip home. I teach all my dogs to drink from a regular .5L spring water bottle and I bring as much for him as I bring for me. When I drink, he drinks.(mine is spring water .... his is a tap refil)

Chuck,
Not first aid per se .. just a small bit of extra thot .. remember that acetomeniphen or anything with it, like many of the headache remedies is LETHAL TO DOGS. Aspirin, is not.

Also dogs cannot process chocolate and it too is potentially lethal, so the candy bar thing is a bad idea. Stick to dog food, a small amount in a baggie or a dog bone 'treat'.

Talk to your vet & read some of the hunting dog forums. Lots of good advise here too. Think of getting Jazz 'snake trained'. Runs $25 or so, but can save the dog's life if you are going to have her out in the field hunting with you in warmer climes or areas and not just doing waterfowl retreiving.

How do you snake train a dog ?
L.F.

You burn 'em. Seriously, you walk the dog past a snake on a lead. The moment the dog shows any interest, they get zapped by the trainer. At the same time they quickly move dog away from the snake.

It only takes 2 or 3 experiences like that and the dog has no further interest in snakes.

Pete

Snake proofing a dog is done with a negative correction to the dog to associate the sight,smell and sound of a snake with something they should avoid. Most people use an electric shock collar to do the corrections along with real snakes.Training sometimes needs to be repeated at the start of the season or when you might have an encounter with a snake.

Chuck,

I have used the "generic" boric eye wash found at Walgreens, CVC, et. al. The key is to rinse out the particles in the eyes. Dogs run at "seed" level and fill their eyes with all sorts of stuff. One other item I carry, but have never used, are tongue depressers. I always thought they would make a good splint if needed and are light weight. I carry two "levels" of first aid. A ziploc in my hunting vest with EMT gel, bandages, small scissors, tweezers and eye wash. The next level has much more and is too heavy to carry but in my car in immediate reach if needed.

Safe hunting!

Jim

The vitamin C article was convincing. I bought a small bottle for my 'crash kit'. I'm buying new stuff for the kit so I don't raid the home supplies. I figured it's going to double as the regular travel first aid kit I shoulda had for people all along. Fortunately, I've never really needed a first aid kit except for the horse trips and we got by with what I and others had in our saddlebags. I've got a can of spray on bandage stuff from the horse biz that works exceptionally, but is not cheap. When you need it, it doesn't matter the cost. For bleeding extremities on horses (usually lower leg cuts) I've used ice or snow to stop the bleeding quickly. It contracts the tissue quickly to shut off superficial bleeding.

Know the location and phone number of the local vet.

I carry the usual bandages, disinfectants, ear cleaner, Q Tips, eye wash (for dogs - their eyes have a different PH than ours), etc., but I also carry:

Injectible benedryl for snake bites and allergic reactions - this is loaded into doses in syringes and carried in aluminum cigar tubes labled with the dog's name.

Needle and suture material (a stapler is better).

Leatherman and foreceps for removal of cactus and other spines, as well as porcupine quills

Antibiotic - general broad spectrum oral type

Duct tape - lots of uses

C Man

Make sure to use a kennel for travel. It also confines and relaxes the pooch if he gets hurt. I often wondered how I would get my dog out if something happened when we were chukar hunting.He had so much drive he blew out his knee. This got progressively worse. The ability to read the dog is important. Know when to rest. Never take a 100lb. lab chukar hunting regardless of his condition and stamina.It's just too hard on them. I'm at the point where I would much rather have him as a pet than the huntin fool that he is.

If you have horses, (I used to have them too) Chuck you might want to take along a bottle of Koppertex. It is a green solution that is used on horses hooves. It is also great for putting on a dog's (foot) pads to toughen them up when they are sore. Just spread it out all over each pad. Good luck in your hunt.

Awolf,
The chukar hunting areas in the So Cal deserts can be brutal terrain. I know what you mean about taking a big dog in this kind of rocky steep terrain where every step is precarious. I specifically bought a small Lab because I had planned on using her for upland hunting. Jazz is 42lbs., a runt in Lab terms.

Cman,
Where'd one get injectable Benedryl?

I found this site. It lists vets by state / city. It is not complete, can't find my vet on it, but it is a good start.

http://www.netpets.com/dogs/vets/

Pete

Lots of people carry leatherman tools or hemastats for removing porcupine quills. I had the misfortune to see both in action last season.

My dog had over 100 quills in her face, tongue and throat. The trouble with those tools is that they require more effort and dexterity to open than they do to close. With quills, time is of the essence; you want to be able to pluck as fast as humanly possible.

After that incident, I went out and bought several sets of cheap ($3) spring-loaded, needlenose pliers. You simply squeeze, pull and relax your grip. I carry 3 pairs; one for me, one for my partner and one to turn up missing in an emergency.

As usual, lot's of good stuff from experienced folks and my kit will be improved with some of the suggestions. Spring loaded pliers and the injectable benedryl are two immediate upgrades; my dog's allergic to bees and the pills I have probably wouldn't be fast enough if she got multiple stings.

I asked my vet to set up a dose for each dog. It is helpful if a dog is struck, but you still need to get to a vet ASAP.

I keep my dogs' medical kit all in a snap top plastic storage box, that rides in the rear drawer in my Lancruiser, next to my training gear and guns.

C

You might also ask your vet, or MD, for a Rx for an EpiPen http://www.epipen.com/?p=EPKW2001&s=01&c=96&eng=GGL It's an auto-inject device with Epinephrine for life-threatening allergic reactions and shock.
They are expensive and have a limited self-life however.
And while you're bugging your doc, ask for a quinolone containing antibacterial eye drop.
I also bring Bag Balm which really helps the rash/irritation the dogs get on their lower abdomen from running in wheat stubble.

Lots of good advice here. The only thing I didn't see mentioned is a check chord/ lead rope. In case the dog gets over heated (which she will) it makes it much easier to control her for a few minutes, then let her go on her way again. Just a few feet of any light rope with a snap will do. Would also serve as a (crappy) tournequet.

Gil,

I keep one or the other in my vest at all times, guess I never thought of it as a first aid item.

This is one of the most useful threads I've read on this site. Thanks to Chuck H for starting it. After reading about the vitamin C stuff I called my vet and he had never heard of this kind of treatment for snake bites, but he said it made sense. Needless to say, I immediately went to my truck, pulled the Brittany first aide pack and included a bottle of vitamin C. In Arizona, during quail season, you need all the help you can get. Thanks again for some great information.

Gentlemen: I'm making no value judgments but simply saying if a MD and a Vet know nothing about Vit C for snakebite, it might be reasonable to assess this data with some skepticism.

Here's some more websites and you can decide if this all sounds reasonable:
http://phoenix.about.com/cs/desert/a/snakebite_2.htm :rolleyes:
(BTW: Signing out of an ER AMA is not usually the most discernful maneuver in the management of one's health)
This site DOES suggest sucking the venom BY MOUTH : http://www.pathlights.com/nr_encyclopedia/16pois01.htm

These are excellent sites regarding conventional evaluation and management:
http://www.emedicine.com/med/topic2143.htm
http://www.aafp.org/afp/20020401/1367.html

Fortunately, Vitamin C toxicity is very rare:
http://www.nlm.nih.gov/medlineplus/ency/article/002404.htm

And here are a couple re: management of snakebite in dogs
http://www.thepetcenter.com/exa/sb.html
http://www.marvistavet.com/html/body_rattlesnake_bites_in_californi.html

Bottom line:
"A snake bite should always be treated as an emergency even in a vaccinated dog.
If your dog is bitten by a rattlesnake, seek veterinary attention immediately."

Thanks for all the suggestions so far. I bought a tool case that looks a bit like an alum covered guncase that has dividers for the storage. I'll see the vet just before I leave. I'll see if I can convince him to set me up with a syringe of Benedryl. Needle and suture or thread will get in there. One of the things I learned from vets around horses was to not use hydrogen peroxide, alcohol, or other strong anti-bacterial on large wounds that need to be closed back up. The peroxide or other a/b will kill tissue and not facilitate mending growth back together, according a vet that told me this.

"not use hydrogen peroxide"
That is correct Chuck-the best irrigation solution is the squeeze bottle of saline. I can't emphasize enough the importance of complete removal of ANY dirt and debris before closing a wound.
And we're all asking to get dog bit attempting to suture without using lidocaine first-unless you're truly in the middle of nowhere, this is also a job for a Vet.

Chuck
My dog was a pup when I got him but he just kept on growing and growing and growing. I wanted a small lab.Now he is a monster. I will run the vitamin c thing through that doc at Loma linda and see what he says.If you must sew on the dog, include a muzzle.

Chuck: All are good comments, but I carry my kit in a fanny pack so the stuffs available when I need it. A severely injured dog, or human companion in the field with a first aid kit in a car/truck several miles away is something to avoid. You can fit everything you need in one, at least enough to get you back to the car and its not that heavy either. John

John
I agree. Certain things should be along with you on foot. Figuring out what's practical to carry and what's gonna stay in the truck is the critical part. I've bought way more stuff than I can practically carry while hunting.

May I suggest that you forget the needle and suture, instead talk to your vet about a surgical stapler. If the vet agrees, have them show you the proper use. It is very quick.

I would still bring the peroxide. I don't use it to clean wounds. Mixed with water, it induces vomiting in a dog. It acts very rapidly by the way. I have a large syringe with some surgical tubing on the end, that I put together. I have used it to force the mixture down the dog's throat. Especially useful when you catch dog lapping up anti-freeze, etc.

Pete

Pete,
Yeah the stapler would be a good choice. My horse buddy had a deal on a bunch of them recently but I missed out on one. The peroxide will stay in the kit for superficial wounds and since this is a people kit also.

BTW, I couldn't seem to find electrolyte packaged for dogs, so I bought a syringe of paste electrolyte that I'm familiar using on horses. I read the ingredients and I'd put it in my coffee if I was dehydrated. I'll check with my vet on it's use on my dog, but I'm sure it's fine.

PS, I hope to never encounter my or anyone else's dog lapping up antifreeze. I've seen a cat that was blinded from it.

I didn't se anyone mention a tick removing doo-dad.

eug

Gene,
I ordered a few of the hook type (O'Tom's Tick Twister). They seem to be very easy to use and effective. There was a tick related thread earlier this week.