So, I've read of this, but what is the opinion of the group here on saturating the end grain of a stock head with very thin cyanoacrylate to strengthen it against cracking and splitting?
I assume oil soaked stock heads won't accept the cyano- as it should. But, if the wood appears to be dry enough to soak it up, should it do a good job?
And, how does this compare with epoxy bedding?
Thanks, SRH
It sounds like the stock head is sound and you're looking for a bit extra. Based on how it can stabilize a user wood knife handle, I would consider it to stabilize a good stock head. Strengthen, that I wouldn't hope for too much, but my confident suspicion is that quality thin cyanoacrylate will penetrate much farther than thin epoxy. I don't believe it will be much of a bedding help, but it might be an advantage in spots you don't want to alter the bedding. Only thoughts, good luck with it Stan.
Just one thought comes to mind. "Dont fix it if it ain't broke".
It is a stable stock, craig, and a re-stock to be more accurate. I'm assembling a two barrel set on a Sterlingworth ejector to be used for all the really heavy 2 3/4" magnum loads I will shoot out of my S x Ss. The 32" set are NOS with heavy walls. My thought is that it can do no harm to saturate the end grain of that stock head with cyano to strengthen the grain against possible splits or cracks. But, I would like to hear from folks with experience using it to do so, or any other constructive thoughts.
Kinda goes against my religion to wait until something breaks before addressing it, damascus. I've made my living for 48 years, partially by doing preventative maintenance on my farm equipment, in order to forestall breakdowns. I assume you've partially, or fully, made yours repairing broken guns? Preventative maintenance kinda takes bread off your table, eh?
SRH
I agree with the preventative maintenance theory- 100%. I have used the same technique to "treat" the wood inletting on my sidelock L.C. Smiths (those that I am keeping- not any I bought as "parts" guns- or those I would re-sell "as is" later on. And I only shoot light loads in mine- even the 3" LONGRANGE,
Being a welder by trade, and working for area farms that in turn give me open permission to hunt and shoot on their property- I see many cases where preventative measures might have been worthwhile-- judged with the old 20/20 hindsight. RWTF
Stan, I have used "crazy glue" same as the other stuff that I cannot pronounce, on L.C. Smith stocks and I believe it does help. The problem with glass bedding an L.C. Smith in my mind is that more wood has to be removed for the epoxy. It is thin enough as it is.
Thanks, David. I appreciate the reply.
SRH
I've used it quite a bit. Just be sure to get the water thin formulation that will soak in and not form a surface film. I'm convinced it strengthens the wood and it will "find" cracks that you didn't know where there. I've also epoxy bedded the gun afterwards.
Those that don't disassemble their guns would be amazed how cracked up stocks can be internally. Not to mention rust and 100 years of gunk and debris on the mechanism. I know one guy, a collector of sorts, that will never open them up as long as they go bang. Shoots them dry and dirty. It makes me cringe. I'm with you Stan on preventative maintenance.
Definition.
If it ain't broke don't fix it means don't attempt to alter or improve something that is already working reasonably well. The idea is that often, the more something is fiddled with, the more likely it is that something will go wrong.
Stan, I have spent my whole working career servicing products from Coal Mines to Nuclear power stations with a number of Car Manufacturing Plants thrown in and not to mention numerous Chemical manufacturing plants to name drop but a few, over the last fifty plus years.
As you can see from the definition above it has nothing to do with preventative maintenance on which you seemed to have misused my statement “If it aint Broke don’t fix it” intentionally to fit your argument.
One of the largest disasters was caused by fiddling with something that was working fine until interfered with under the guise of improving and testing was the Nuclear reactor at Chernobyl.
Stan Have I missed something here you asked the question then argued with the answer. Here is another Saying for you to ponder over. “Please do not ask for my advice then have the nerve to tell me I am wrong”
I think we will have to agree to differ.
I'm more on Stan's side of the fence on this. I have welded stainless schedule pipe in coal fired power plants-- Not the hazard as per: 3 Mile Island, Chernobyl, and the movie "The China Syndrome"-- but I have seen cases of "fudged" weld X-rays-- each qualified weldor uses a code stamp usually related to his SS or payroll number-- so the X-ray lads can tell which one ran the passes being examined--
But welding is more than fabrication-- one good example comes to mind-- a Quarry or gravel pit-- Lincoln makes both a rod and a interflux core wire with heavy manganese-- code name is "Abrasoweld" if memory serves.
The life of scoops, blades, and other steel components used in such industries, and others- a backhoe shovel, or a clam-shell- can be extended a great deal by a build-up weld bead on the leading edge-- In my lexicon, that isn't broken, then fix-it welding, that is "preventative maintenance" in spades-
Stan Have I missed something here you asked the question then argued with the answer.
No disrespect, damascus ............but, just because you answered doesn't mean you had "the answer".
And, again no disrespect meant, but just because you offer your meaning of the phrase "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" doesn't mean that is the "
definition".
All my best to you, SRH
Thin Super Glue (CA) has limited strength. The very thin glue (CSP of 5) will penetrate much better but will only improve the wood slightly. This is a much thinner than water type glue. It is so thin that it can quickly run everywhere and cures up very fast. A drop on skin will cure before you can get it off. CA is exothermic when it cures, so it also is a burn risk for skin and a paper towel will catch fire if it gets too much on it. What it will do is protect all the wood against oil penetration which is one long term problem for too many doubles. So just for wood sealing alone, I think you are improving the stock long term. Preventing future cracks I doubt it has much real value.