doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com 10 gauge chamber length

Well I got the WC Scott all back together - action rejointed, chunk out of forend replaced and checkered, new piece of horn inlaid in the forend, firing pin spring replaced, a new screw for the side lever, and the barrels honed.

Bought a new loader the other day and received my "care package" from BP with new cases, wads, and filler wads so I'm ready to cut the cases down and begin to reload. I assumed the chambers were 2 7/8" but hadn't measured them so thought I should just to make sure. You guessed it - they weren't. They are 2 5/8".

That leaves me two choices as I see it. I could rechamber to 2 7/8" after measuring to be certain there is enough metal, or set up to load 2 5/8" shells. The problem is all the data for low pressure loads I've found is for 2 7/8" loads.

I've just about decided to go the 2 5/8" load route as I hate to open the chambers as that can't be reversed. I feel I can load using the 2 7/8" data without getting into pressure trouble as I'm using Remington and Federal straight wall cases. All I'll have to do is eliminate the filler wad called for in the recipe and the crimp should be fine. I thought I'd also drop the powder charge a couple of grains at first and chronograph the loads. I expect the velocities to be lower with less powder which would also mean lower pressure. If that's the case I'll increase the powder until I get close to the published velocity for the 2 7/8" data. That should provide an ample safety margin. Ideally, I'd get the loads tested, but I have no idea who could do that or who would have data for low pressure 2 5/8" loads.

What do you guys think? Am I way off base here? I sure don't want to have an accident or hurt my new to me pet. Thanks in advance, Don Hansen.

If you are using card and felt wadding I may be able to help. These are published loads having been tested through the Birmingham Proof House. I can find a few 2 and 5/8" loads using American powders (most use European powders as I live in England). Parallel tube case (not compression formed) 1 5/8th. ounce lead shot CCI 109 or Win 209 primer, 45 grains of Blue Dot or 33 grains of Herco or 37 grains HS6, 1/8" card wad, 1/2" felt, 1/16" card, shot then roll crimp with a 1/16" top wad. These are suitable for guns nitro proofed for the 1 3/8th. ounce load. I have used these myself along with powders such as Vectan AO, Nobel 62 and Nobel 82. I still have a few boxes of the old Eley-Kynoch 10 bore 2 5/8th. inch cartridges but these are becoming collector's items now. Lagopus.....

Just load the 2 & 7/8" and don't worry about it. There realy is no need to worry.

Don,
jOe is absolutely correct. There's a 12 bore version of this question (2.5 v 2.75 chamber lengths) that is repeated quarterly to nausious lengths. Your gun doesn't care, but if it's still a concern to you, simply have your forcing cones extended. That will do the trick.
Steve

I guess I should have been more complete in my discription of the gun. It dates to 1874 and has damascus barrels. It has not been nitro proffed, hence my desire for low pressure loads to duplicate the performance of black powder. It would be nice to be able to send the gun to England and have it nitro proofed, but I can't justify the expense. The gun is sound and I'm not worried about shooting it as nitro proof consists of nothing more that assuring the gun is sound, then firing proof loads through it. It's a great idea, but not if you live in the states and have to face the expense of having it done. I'm sure it would wind up costing close to $2000 with all the newer laws concerning shipping and handling now in place.

I appreciate your loading data, but what I want are 1 oz. and 1 1/8 oz. loads. While the gun is heavy and fits me perfectly, I have a severe recoil problem from years of shooting skeet using very light English doubles then shooting registered skeet for about 25 years. I can't shoot heavy loads without flinching, even in the field. I've also found they are not needed for the type of shooting I do as one can only kill a bird so dead!

I've read the article in The Double Gun Journal concerning 2 3/4" loads in 2 1/2 inch chambers. I'm still a little hesitant to shoot loads that don't match the chamber length. I've had to put to many guns back on face. I know there are many things that can cause that condition, but still feel improper ammo can be a culprit. JMHO. Thanks and keep the suggestions coming, Don Hansen.

Don,
Why don't you load black powder, the shock and awe value of BP alone makes it worth it (KABOOM). That said, I'd suggest getting 10-12 GaugeMates (machine them back 2/8's, or order them made that way) then you can shoot 12 gauge shells through your 10 gauge. I used to shoot Winchester AA Featherlites that way with a 10 gauge Colt I had and it worked great. I used the BP loads for SXS events and hunting.
Steve

The advice to disregard chamber length and use 2 7/8" hulls only works if you do not have square corner chambers. Make sure you have tapered forcing cones before you try to run longer than chamber length shells in there. I see nothing wrong with using 12 gauge target load data in your shells, using powders on the fast side to maintain adequate pressure in the big hole. Use something faster than Herco with 1 1/8 ounce loads to insure good ignition. Green Dot would be my choice in a very old gun. If your barrels are relatively thick, I would use Red Dot.

I use a set of homemade chambermates to shoot low pressure 12 ga. shells in one of my 10's. Any machine shop can make them if you do not have a metal lathe or buy them off the shelf these days. If you get 6K psi in a 12 ga. bore it will only be less in the larger 10 bore. Some of the real low pressure loads do not burn well for me in cold weather and I no longer load them anymore. There are several excellent, low pressure 12 loads, that are a snap to load. And the supply of 12 ga. empties is a thousand times better than the supply of 10 ga. hulls.

KY post up a pic of these hOmemade 10 to 12 guage mates....I'm sure I'm not the only person dying to see them.

While yer here explain to everyone just how yer machinist made them.

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