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Forums10
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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130 |
I stripped the stock, several times. Worked it over with steel wool. Now I've got 4 coats of Formbys Tung Oil Finish. It looks great.
What do I do next put it back together, wax it, and shoot it?
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,781
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,781 |
I would give it at least 4 more coats.. MDC
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298 |
I'd hold off on waxing it. I'd let the tung really really cure before I waxed it. (its the buffing part of the waxing that could take some of that tung off in your waxing process)
Some guys might think I'm nuts but i think tung oil takes a month or 2 or even 3 depending on conditions to really cure. I know linseed oil takes at least that long times 1.5.
Waxing could wait if I were you.
Isn;t tung oil a terrific look? What gloss grade did you use? Did you use any pumice or rotten stone at the end?
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86 |
I hate to say it but I think Tung Oil sucks as a gunstock finish.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
I hate to say it but I think Tung Oil sucks as a gunstock finish. But you did. Tell us why.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 2,038 |
I have used tung oil and I will continue to use it. I find it to do what I ask it to do.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130 |
Whether it sucks or not it's on this gun for now.
What would the pumice or the rotten stone do that steel wool not do? And why treat like that?
This is my first one and it looks good. Oh, Low gloss.
Thanks
DB
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 325
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 325 |
Tung can work great, if you know how to use it. Pure Tung is hard to work with and if you dont know how to work with it your results may SUCK.
And a prepared finish like Formby's is modified with dryers and urethanes to make it a lot more forgiving for a novice than pure tung.
If you really want an oil style finish tung beats the snot out of Linseed in moisture protection. Using either one as part of an oil modified polymer finish makes good sense and is the basis for many commercial products, none of which SUCK.
Deltaboy, tyake the advice posted earlier about giving it a month or two. Even though it appears to be finished the oils are continuing to polimerize. Patience is one of the ingredients needed to prevent SUCKING.
Pumice or rottenstone are finer abrasives than OOOO steel wool. They leave much finer scratches, so fine that when done right they just leave a flat even soft surface with no evidence of scratching.
Jeff
Jeff
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
The additional value of pumice or rottenstone is they leave no broken metal fibers behind. I prefer rottenstone, it is very fine and easy to control.
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298
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Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 298 |
yeah, what they said (about rottenstone and pumice) :)... It is a long held gunstock finisher and fine wood finisher practice to use rottenstone or pumice to get that really warm surface finish and/or cut down the gloss without as others pointed out scratch the surface.
And, it is great to see others pipe in that oils take months to cure and one should not be in a hurry to wax and buff them.
My buddy just called me and said he is putting on his fourth coat of tung oil on an old gun stock he is refinishing... I converted him to tung oil recently... On the phone he keeps saying to me: "You won't believe how great this stock looks now!"
(Geepers I'm the guy who convinced him to try tung oil! hahaha)
Just another happy convert... although I do know there are many out there who don't like Tung Oil. Everyone has preferences. It's all good.
Last edited by Yogi 000; 01/30/07 08:30 PM.
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