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Joined: Oct 2006
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So the people that don't like Tung Oil - What do they not like about it? I mean, if someone were to have a 2,500 dollar stock made with 1,000 wood, why not Tung Oil? What else and why? Jake


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How does Pro-Custom Oil stack up against tung oil?

John C #23207 01/31/07 08:43 AM
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Pro custom oil is a blend and one of the main components is Tung oil. These blends are known as oil modified polymers and they typically contain urethane varnish, oil (usually tung) and dryers like Japan dryer.

Click the link and then click the link to technical specs:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=273505

Lot's of people are using tung oil and dont know it cause they are buying a prepared blend and don't have any knowledge of what is in it. These blends are easier to use than straight tung and IMO leave a more durable finish.

I make my own blending the components in small batches as I need them.

Jeff


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I've never used Pro Oil. Years ago I used Homer Forbys 'dung' oil and didn't like it.

A while back I made up a mixture that I believe Solapan posted on here of Linseed oil, turpentine, Cobalt dryer and Carnauba wax...it really brought the glow back in the stock of one of my old guns. I'd like to see the mixture posted on here again. I think it was pretty much mixed on thirds with a small addition of Carnauba wax simmered in a pot for awhile.

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I have used Pro Oil on several stocks and it is great...but the different methods are worth trying until you find one you like.

Jim

Last edited by jjwag69; 01/31/07 09:27 AM.
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Well, I'm up to 5 coats of Formbys and it looks great. I'l try the pumice in 4-5 days.
Where do you get the rottenstone or is that another name for pumice?

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Rottenstone is made from different material. It is finer than Pumice which is made from volcanic rock.


So many guns, so little time!
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I refinished a Tobin 12 with the Formby's tung oil last year-the stuff (green can) was on sale at the hardware store. Cheapskate that I am, I gave it a try. I've got more like 8 or 9 coats on the stock, and I just wiped it on with lint free printers cloths pilfered from work, and used Birchwood Casey's "Stock Sheen and Conditioner" to knock the gloss down. Carol at Ahlman's recheckered it. It won't ever fool anybody into thinking it is a London finish, but, the results are certainly durable, it was easy, and low buck/low effort. Not sure I'd recommend it for a spendy gun, but, poly sure holds the weather out of the wood.

I've got a few guns with real oil finishes. They are pretty. But, I think for a go-to everyday gun, poly seals up the wood a lot better. Tradition gets in the way of progress sometimes.
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Quote:
Years ago I used Homer Forbys 'dung' oil and didn't like it.


Thank you, very useful information. The previous posts address the various pemutations of tung oil. Even in pure form, it will dry in 24 hrs. if applied sparingly and rubbed in. Pure tung oil does dry to a fairly high gloss with multiple coats.

Here is Dig's (highly recommended)formula for oil finish:

Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 grains
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers. Simmer for ten minutes then allow to cool.
Be careful it does not catch fire -!!!!

Rottenstone, pumice and whiting are available at any good paint or hardware store, usually Synko brand. Most woodworking supply places like Woodcraft carry these and other finishing products.

I might add, I consider these show gun finishes and would never take these guns out in the rain despite what others might say. If the weather is lousy, I have my Merkel 8 beater or an 870. Why play football in cashmere.

Last edited by Hansli; 01/31/07 10:54 AM.
Hansli #23244 01/31/07 10:58 AM
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Homeless guy,

You have strong opinions.

Is there a commercial product that you have a strong positive opinion of?

Jeff


Jeff
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