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Apr 29th, 2024
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Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 659 |
I have been using Formby's tung oil in low gloss and high gloss for years not only on gun stocks but on fine furniture. The last gunstock project I did I mixed the low gloss Tung oil 50/50 with boiled linseed oil and bu using it VERY sparingly..... literally half a drop per side of a SxS stock, and rubbing it in thouroughly, the finished product was amazing. I put on a coat every evening while watching TV for about a month, each coat taking about two hours to rub in. The results are a soft and satin finish that is very deep. After at least two months in the safe I completed it by using Butcher's Bowling Alley Wax, a carnuba wax in a petroleum base, this dries very hard. I use this on the whole gun, to include all metal parts. Looks great!
Last edited by Steve Lawson; 01/31/07 11:06 AM.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 614
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 614 |
Anyone interested in another mans opinion on tung oil, read http://doublegunshop.com/phiatt3.htm . Mr. Peter Hiatt has a lot of experience finishing gunstocks. He is a member of this board also. Tung oil does offer the best protection against water, but then again it has its downsides. It does take a long time to completely dry, even if you add driers to your finishing mix.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Why play football in cashmere. Indeed! I've used a lot of the American "barracks soldier" version of Hadoke's linseed-based goop (BL, turps, beeswax but without the Venice turps resin)as a shiny patch over not so great to worn finishes. Said to be quite permeable and it certainly water-spots. Question: Did the "London oil finish" originally suffer from the same failings? What is the timeline? Does the current version contain synthetic resins or urethanes? jack
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 202
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 202 |
Something else to consider about tung oil. Some people can develope an allergic reaction to it. If I remember reading a tech sheet correctly about 10-15% of people are reactive to it in some way.
Tony
Last edited by Tony 21; 01/31/07 12:46 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130
Junior Member
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OP
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 130 |
Well, hell this is just an old beater. About 1 in 10 times out it's raining. That's what happened to the original finish. Looks great now.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 325
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 325 |
Pete Hyatt's process is great, but he's just using a commercially prepared blend of polimerizing oils and mineral spirits, similar to what I make at home...
By the way, if you look up the MSDS sheets for Tru-Oil you'll find out that it is:
56% mineral spirits
33% Modified oil
11% Linseed oil
Jeff
Last edited by Jeff Mull; 01/31/07 09:19 PM.
Jeff
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,456 Likes: 86 |
Years ago I used Homer Forbys 'dung' oil and didn't like it. Here is Dig's (highly recommended)formula for oil finish: Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz Carnauba wax – 200 grains Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls Mix together and heat until it simmers. Simmer for ten minutes then allow to cool. Be careful it does not catch fire -!!!! Why play football in cashmere. Because cashmere reminds yOu of your high school sweet heart ? You left out the Gumbracher brand name or use equivilant Artists oils and turps. Where's the Cobalt dryer ?
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
TruOil, Linspeed, Formbys, Minwax, Permalyn, ProCustom, Deft Danish, Watco Danish, Napiers, CCL, Pilkingtons and countless homebrews.....have all "worked" for me to a certain extent...  But after 30 years of experimenting, I've found the best.... https://www.waterlox.com/default.aspx
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 516 |
Because cashmere reminds yOu of your high school sweet heart ? Not exactly, but its high quality, soft hand and gentle warmth reminds me more of your replies than anything else. You left out the Gumbracher brand name or use equivilant Artists oils and turps.
Where's the Cobalt dryer ? I made you the sandwich dear, put your own mustard on it.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 408
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Posts: 408 |
I refinished a couple of Parker stocks a few years back using Tru Oil cut with a little turpentine and "mineral spirits". Used the 0000 steel wool route and Formby's stripper for removal of the original finish (modified Wonko version). Then 14 coats hand-rubbed and knocked down between applications using rottenstone paste made out of uncut Tru Oil right out of the bottle. The 0000 leaves no trace of fibers or threads and the rottenstone makes a "grinding slurry" that leaves and ultra-marble smooth finish, filling pores and layering out the finish. A long and laborious process but the results are spectacular. KBM
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