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7 members (67galaxie, LeFusil, 5 invisible),
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Forums10
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Mar 29th, 2024
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,116 Likes: 91 |
How many coats did you apply?
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 682
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 682 |
4 coats.
If I was to do it again I would use the medium and not the dark walnut.
Gun is a 77 year old 31R
Last edited by Bushmaster; 11/14/12 02:27 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 682
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 682 |
The after doesn't look much better than the before ? Is it true that jOe lives under a rock and only slithers out to splatter his drivel on this Forum?
Last edited by Bushmaster; 11/14/12 03:43 PM.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,008
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,008 |
Watco is relatively easy to use and gives a uniform appearance but it is a pigment, not a dye stain and tends to reduce contrast of grain and figure and gives a somewhat less brilliant appearance than a dye stain followed by oil would.
But there's a lot to be said for real ease of use and your stock came out looking nice.
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,434 Likes: 34
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,434 Likes: 34 |
Dye stains will fade over time, pigment stains are forever.
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,008
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,008 |
Dye stains will fade over time, pigment stains are forever. True but some dyes are more stable than others and I don't think you'll see too many fine gunstocks or really fine furniture stained with pigment stains. It's a trade-off that's more theoretical than practical. Good quality water-soluble dye is pretty permanent and does not diminish the character of the wood. Bushmaster's stock looks very nice.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,227 |
I finished 3 or 4 stocks in succession using Deft Danish Oil. When it was time for another can, the brand was no longer available loacally so I tried the Watco. I didn't like it and never finished a stock with it. I moved on to Permalyn, then Pro Custom, and finally Waterlox & Daly's Ben Matte. What all of those products have in common is they are tung oil/urethane blends, as opposed to (and superior to, IME) linseed/urethane blends like TruOil and Linspeed.
Deft is back in my neighborhood again (I like their lacquers), but I haven't looked for their Danish Oil.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
I use only the Watco Natural FInish which seems to add confusion on this thread as many seem to use the colors. It will be a better finish if you color the stock wood first and then apply Natural Watco.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,728 Likes: 50 |
Many get the impression of a nice looking older shotgun with a nice dark finish, and in redoing a stock, when they are finished the stock is lighter. It is lighter because you removed the top coat which made it dark. To see what your unfinished stock would look like finished, put some water or alcohol on it and that is basically what it will look like finished. Putting a walnut finish on a walnut stock will make it darker. Use a different stain if you want to "color it".
The purpose of stains and dyes is to make a non walnut wood look somewhat like walnut with a stain on it.
The difference between a stain and a dye is that a stain is on the wood and a dye is in the wood.
Last edited by JDW; 11/14/12 09:40 PM.
David
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 610
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 610 |
After stripping this Elsie of it's original finish it appeared to retain some of the red in the wood from the old finish. I added a couple coats of Birchwood Casey Rusty Walnut water based stain along with a little Birchwood Casey Walnut water based stain before the Truoil. Being that it's water based would it really be a dye, or can a dye be either? 
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