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Joined: Jul 2016
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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The good news is... I found and bought 52 10 gauge brass hulls at a price I could afford.

The bad news is... they are expanded out about .010 on the mouth end and a couple thousandths on the base end. They will only enter the chambers of my Remington 1889 about half depth.

Is there any affordable 10 gauge full length sizing dies out there?

Is there any other was to size these hulls down?

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CH4D makes 10 G shotgun dies, not cheap and large thread won't fit ordinary presses. Might check Rocky Mountain Cartridge & see if his hand set will serve.

Large cases size best in a Arbor press, like machine shops use for bearing work. Cheap from Harbor Freight. CH4D will do about anything you want, bet he will make 10 g without threads for arbor presses.

Mouth not so hard to size base another matter depending on your hulls. Sizing hollow is much easier than solid brass around a shells base. I shoot a .25 Krag with a tight chamber. Turn a bit off the base in front of the rim with the lathe because the size die won't do the job

Tin of Imperial Size wax is about essential too.

Boats

Last edited by Boats; 07/23/16 10:27 PM.
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You CAN use a MEC or Texas 10 gauge sizing ring and column and vice and a hammer and drive out punch (wood or aluminum with hole bored out for primer bump)

I use Imperial Sizing wax on the hulls and use the vise to seat them into the sizing die, then use the punch/hammer to drive them out. Please insure the die body is long enough so you do not collapse the mouth of the hull when you seat it in the die body.

Works well and is inexpensive.

Oh, yes also have a 12 ton shop press but do not need it smile



Mike

Last edited by skeettx; 07/24/16 07:54 PM.
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Thanks,

I have a MEC 600 10 gauge press. It only has the sizing ring and won't size the body of the hull.

The hulls are UMC and are what I'd call balloon head. The walls are a little thicker near the rim but not by much. The base thickness is thin - I'm measure between .035-.050 thick. The LP peimer pocket extends into the bottem a good bit.

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Ballon head ought to be easier then solid brass at the base. Several ways to skin a cat. If I had that many to size and no dies would chuck up some Aluminum in the lathe. Open it up to correct size then lathe off not turning push the cases into the hole with the tail stock knock them out through the headstock. Lubed good with imperial and not much to size it does not take much push.

Having said that I size my paper 10 G in a P-W 375. Die sizes the entire hull and no doubt would size brass too, if lubed. Press itself is not real strong and can be broken so it depends on how hard you need to press. A P-W 10 G die is not real expensive and can be used out of the press. Drill press arbor will press pretty good, if it's a big drill press. So it depends on what you have to work with.

Cheapest way from scratch probably a Ponsness Warren 10 G die and cheap arbor press.

All speculation take it as such.

Boats

Last edited by Boats; 07/24/16 05:42 AM.
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Forgot to add, Mikes advice on reliving the knock out rod so,you don't disturb the primer pocket is good. I make knock out rods out of Delrin with one end counter drilled to avoid messing up the inside of the hull. Keep them in 4 Gauges to push hulls out of PW dies.

Boats

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If I was determined for nostalgia's sake to shoot brass hulls I think I'd just by some new ones.
On cases that old the brass is going to be brittle and most likely split after a few shootings.

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I agree with the PW 375 die and delrin or nylon punch. I wouldn't buy new brass unless I had to.

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OK, just to insure we are on the same page.
Your 600 press does not allow the brass to be sized and then ejected?

Or are you saying after sizing in station #1 the brass still won't fit?

The sizing die and tube will unscrew from the press
and you can use it or one like it to size the brass with a vice for power.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VI47bl2h0cU

Last edited by skeettx; 07/24/16 10:20 PM.
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Got to thinking about the old saying, "You can't eat an elephant in one bite.".

I have the MEC 600 10 gauge press. I can use the sizing die to size to the base. I've just done it with one hull. But that leaves the hull with no taper. It's still too big up front.

But the sizing ring from my 12 gauge MEC will fit the 10 gauge die. It's too small but I do have a small lathe that I can use to open it up to sizs the open end. May make two. Just thinking. My local MEC dealers don't list the sizing ring only but may have some as spare parts.

It probably wouldn't hurt to anneal the brass but it's way to hot to think about firing up the lead pot.

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Mec will ship additional rings cheap and fast that sounds like the solution. Your Elephant example is a good one. Some brass I form goes through a dozen steps. Good thing is once done it's done.

Two more tips use very little Imperial . Rub some on you fingers and give the case a quick twirl thumb and forefinger. Aneal is easy in a dark shop bucket of water at your feet. Twist the mouth in a propane torch flame let the hot case drop in the water. Lead will keep from overheating the brass, torch you have to watch the case color, still works good.

Bass

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My personal believe is that if a brass shotshell needs sizing it should be done with a tapered die. I do not know if you can buy one or not but would be a simple matter to lathe turn one. Shotshell chambers have about .005" taper per inch of length. A ring sizer which is small enough for the mouth of the case is going to overwork the base. The die could be made for use by the "Hammer" method, arbor press or regular press if you have one with large enough threads. An old Herter's Super #3 rifle press would work great. It has enough stroke & is threaded to 1Ľ" with the 7/8" bushing removed. Don't try to pull it out of the die by the rim, use a knock-out punch.


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I agree with Miller. Use a die that will shrink a hull cold.

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A long time ago I had a 10 bore die I used on brass shells. I used a big vise to force the shell into it. After resizing I painted half of the hulls head stamp lettering red and only used them in the left barrel of my 10 bore Parker. Never had to resize them again as long as I only used them in the proper barrel. I may have the die around here, if I do I will notify you.

bill

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Looks like I've got the hulls sized down and they look pretty good.

I used the MEC 600 JR press to the point of abuse. I removed the standard 209 primer decap pin (obviously it's not going to pass through the large pistol flash hole) and sized the base of all the hulls. The major struggle was with a slight bulge about a half inch from base. I had to remove the sizing die to knock out the brass. Then put the die back on for next hull.

The mouth ends were still .010-.015 too big - no taper. I started to take a MEC 12 gauge sizing ring and open it up to size the mouth end. But somewhere in the thought process I thought of trying the size ring for the 12 gauge Lee Loadall. I found that the back side of the size ring was just about perfect size. I decide to bell the top side, taper and polish it. I removed the star crimp starter and used that station to press the size ring onto the hull until it hit the 12 gauge sizing ring. That went slow but worked.

But sizing down only about a half an inch wasn't enough. I decided to cut the 12 gauge sizing ring out of the ring so the ring could be pushed further down the hull. I removed the priming cup and used that station. The hull would pass through the cup hole but sizing ring wouldn't. I was able to push the sizing ring to mid way or a little more. I then inverted the hull and ring and with a deep socket dropped in the hull, I could push the hull off the sizing ring.

I resized 40 hulls in this manner and tested them. 30 would drop in with no drag. 10 had a little drag but would work fine. But I'm going to use the gun and loads for Cowboy Action Shooting so I want them to fall in and fall out easily. So I'll run these back through the dies and retest.

I'm going to run a primer pocket reamer in the pockets to remove any deformities that may have occurred in rough handling. Then run them through vibration cleaner. THEN, finally I can load and enjoy shooting them.

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Good on ya!!
The OLD MEC cups were designed to change from Large Pistol to Shotshell primers
And I made a special de-capping punch





Mike

Last edited by skeettx; 07/24/16 10:19 PM.

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Sidelock
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I hear MEC can supply a large pistol primer punch and seating post kit. It's not a catalog item. I'm told you have to call to get it.



I use this high-tech tool I designed myself to decap brass hulls. I'm shooting black powder or BlackMZ and like to decap and give the brass a bath and cleaning before reloading.

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