S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,499
Posts545,465
Members14,414
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2 |
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MRC-Mequon-Reloading-Lee-28-Ga-Gauge-2-3-4-Shotshell-Loader-Reloader-Kit/323087159396?hash=item4b397ed064:g:GdUAAOSwOFBai4uq
Copy and paste entire link
Mike YIKES!!! $125 is a bit steep. Thank God it sold, as I am weak! May just scrounge around the plumbing dept at Lowes for the right ID pipe to cobble something together.
Last edited by Rudybollo; 02/21/18 11:39 AM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212 |
I'd be cautious of what a shotgun sizer could do for you. I think your chamber is tapered, and it doesn't sound like you have even been able to get to the base which is maybe all the commercial sizer would do.
If you want to go low budget, maybe you could drill a few holes in scrap steel plate, based using some indicating die and measurements of where the case is hanging up in the chamber. I'd bet you could create a series of mild steps to get the brass to chamber, then fire form and trim before loading. Who knows, but I would suspect that the web of a brass case may be hard on conventional shotgun sizing equipment. Only thoughts.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2 |
I'd be cautious of what a shotgun sizer could do for you. I think your chamber is tapered, and it doesn't sound like you have even been able to get to the base which is maybe all the commercial sizer would do.
If you want to go low budget, maybe you could drill a few holes in scrap steel plate, based using some indicating die and measurements of where the case is hanging up in the chamber. I'd bet you could create a series of mild steps to get the brass to chamber, then fire form and trim before loading. Who knows, but I would suspect that the web of a brass case may be hard on conventional shotgun sizing equipment. Only thoughts. I started thinking about this, too, and realized I was on the wrong track. What puzzles me is that the gun apparently functioned as a 28 gauge shotgun after its original boring out and rechambering. It could be that the thinner brass shotgun shells of the late 19th century "plumped out" more easily at the base when fired in this oversized chamber. But .040 seems like too much for the Magtech to expand.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,464 Likes: 207
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,464 Likes: 207 |
Rudybollo, I agree that .040" is too much, but You won't know unless you try it. If the cases hold together, don't size them back to 28 ga., that would be sure to split them. If you try it, wrap a thin strip of tape or file label around the case, ahead of the rim, to center the case in the chamber( so the whole .040" isn't on one side, tape can be removed after first firing). It looks more and more like you will have to buy a lathe and learn to use it. Mike
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 7,463 Likes: 212 |
I believe the thing to keep under consideration is that the starting brass is 24ga. with only a .oo2" clearance at the base. My thinking was the majority of the hangup is a long taper in the chamber, but while it can work, I still would think there will be a somewhat smaller hangup when the base is able to start chambering. I would not size the brass cases for a loose fit, but keep it snug so it's held against the breech, then fire form. Again, only thoughts about how the situation seems to be described, sorry if I'm reading it wrong.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2 |
I think I will try to bump out the 28 gauge cases. I have some copper tape that I can wrap around the base ahead of rim. Could be slow going and burn a bunch of powder, but if I can get 10 cases, that is all I need for the intent of using this as a plinker and MAYBE a woods rifle.
The other choice is expensive, but maybe best. That would be to send a chamber cast to Rocky Mountain Cartridge. They would mill a tapered brass case from solid stick and have it bored to take the .562 round balls I have. Cases would be around $5 each, maybe more, but would last forever.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,534 Likes: 169
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,534 Likes: 169 |
Could you size the cases in a 577 Snider die? Mike
Last edited by skeettx; 02/22/18 09:06 PM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,464 Likes: 207
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,464 Likes: 207 |
Rudybollo, If you start with about 10 grains of bullseye, stop it off with TP, fill the case up with Grits or polishing media, then stop it off with paraffin or something, then shoot it; it wouldn't take too much powder. You might have to adjust the charge. Mike
|
|
|
|
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 157 Likes: 2 |
Could you size the cases in a 577 Snider die? Mike Maybe. Don't have one.
|
|
|
|
|