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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32 |
Looking for recommendations for suitable glues to repair a broken stock , snapped through the wrist into two pieces .
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Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,132 Likes: 216
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,132 Likes: 216 |
A horror story at Christmas Salopian??? A gunstock wrist break, well I suppose these things happen no matter what time of year it is. To answer your question and knowing you live here in Blighty, my choice for repairing stocks is Araldite Epoxey Adhesive slow setting version. This Adhesive has been around a long time about fifty years now and has a good proven track record. Though two piece wrist breaks do need more than a good Adhesive, having repaired a number over the years like a human bone break it will need some help to obtain a sound long lasting repair. I like to use Brass rod internally to span the break, after that type of repair the wrist will be far stronger than when originally made.
The only lessons in my life I truly did learn from where the ones I paid for!
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32 |
Ernie , Thanks for the help. A bit of a dilemna, just considering all the alternatives and wondering which gives highest strength and can be hidden with stain & faux grain? Cyancrolates? Cascomite? Bostik Wood glue and other alternatives Super Glue , Gorilla Glue (which I have never had any success with) , Titebond. Sadly Browning high grade wood ( Grd5) seems to be prone to cracks and if you fit an alternative pad or any other work Browning UK warranty is invalidated. So I need to repair.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 69
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 69 |
Cascomite I have used in boat building and its good and strong. But you need tight joints. I would use as Damascus says good old fashioned 24hr Araldite, or something like West Systems or SP epoxies - these are a thin epoxy resin to which you add fillers to get appropriate consistency and strength. You can make it runnier than araldite so the epoxy soaks in well. Key with any repair is to make sure it's not oil contaminated. Middle of a hand of a stock should n't be too bad, but depends a) on original construction, b) how it was finished and c) whether it has had lots of gun oil applied and then stored butt down. Acetone is good for cleaning oil out of the wood first.
Do Brownings have their stock attached with a stock bolt? if so you might need either drill it out and put in a sleeve, or use it as the reinforcement, but thoroughly wax it first so it doesn't stick. Brass is good, but may be a bit heavy - no reason not to use say carbon fibre rods if you want light weight.
Must admit a lot of modern fancy stocks show little understanding of wood engineering. Mostly the grain is laid out incorrectly, and frankly mostly they are done for show, rather than strength. Look at stocks on old fine guns - they all have nice strong and straight grain. Burrs break - fine for veneers, but not for anything structural.
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,466 Likes: 487
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,466 Likes: 487 |
I've posted this information before, but several years ago, I wondered the same things, having seen far too many guns with very obvious stock repairs. So I did my own little experiment by running some black walnut through the planer, and then cutting a bunch of pieces about 1 inch wide x 2 1/2 inches long. I then glued pieces together using at least 3-4 brands of epoxy including Brownells Acraglas, West System, and a 4:1 boat building epoxy. I also used a polyurethane Gorilla type glue, and a couple wood glues including Titebond II.
With a close fitting joint, the Titebond II gave me the most invisible repair. I then applied a coat of several stock/wood finishes I had on hand to see what effect that had on either accentuating or hiding a glue joint. I used Permalyn, Sherwin Williams Spar Varnish, Minwax Oil Modified Urethane, Tru-oil, Deft, Tung Oil, Watco Danish Oil, a clear gloss Polyurethane, and probably a couple other I can't recall off the top of my head. I was quite surprised at how much the choice of finish can make a glue repair more or less obvious. As I recall, the Watco Danish Oil, and the Tung Oil did very well, and the straight Polyurethane left the glue joints the most visible.
I then took a number of my nice little test pieces, and clamped them in a vise and smacked them with a shearing hammer blow across the glue joint. The Titebond II performed the best, and was actually stronger than the wood. However, with a crossgrain break like a broken wrist, I would still do as Damascus recommends and reinforce it with a brass or steel pin. And naturally, I would coat the pin and hole with good epoxy because wood glue will not give a good bond with the non-porous brass or steel pin. I will note that Titebond II was best with a close fitted joint, and epoxy has better strength when gaps may be present. But the goal should be to have no gaps which need to be filled with a thick epoxy.
I bought a bottle of Titebond III several months ago, but have not had a chance to try it on walnut to see if it is any better than Titebond II. The polyurethane glue gave a very strong and fairly invisible joint, but it was very messy due to the foaming squeeze-out which required some sanding to get off the surface so it didn't act as a sealer and inhibit the penetration of finish. The shelf life for unused amounts is very short as well. But I have read that polyurethane glue is a better choice on wood that may have traces of oil contamination, or for naturally oily wood such as ebony. Naturally, it is equally important to get a very closely fitted joint if you want a strong repair that is hard to detect. Correct clamping is a must, and a whole other subject. The goal is to close the joint completely without damaging the wood, and without too much squeeze-out which will starve the glue joint. All these little details make the difference between those excellent but expensive gun stock wood repair specialists who can make a shattered stock look as if it was never broken, and the mediocre to piss poor gray epoxy and baling wire Bubba-type repairs that are all too common.
I've never been a fan of faux grain because it is... well, faux.
A true sign of mental illness is any gun owner who would vote for an Anti-Gunner like Joe Biden.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,056 Likes: 338
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,056 Likes: 338 |
Tightbond II comes in a walnut tint
Out there doing it best I can.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,081 Likes: 462
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,081 Likes: 462 |
Tightbond also makes a translucent glue which is very hard to see. Best used without stain or dye though as it absorbs the color faster than the surrounding wood leaving a dark line.
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,689 Likes: 32 |
Thanks for the input . Now down to work . Preferences please . Cyancrolate , Titebond , Araldite etc. What have you used that you would have no qualms about using again .
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Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 450 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 450 Likes: 4 |
Titebond II is all I use anymore, never tried the III. And, I have tried the other options.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,375 Likes: 1318
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,375 Likes: 1318 |
Tightbond also makes a translucent glue which is very hard to see. Best used without stain or dye though as it absorbs the color faster than the surrounding wood leaving a dark line. How can you hide that dark line before applying finish? I've got one I'm struggling with right now. It's in a very visible place .............just behind the top tang on a 1889 Remington, where a piece of walnut has been inletted, to fix where a large chunk had chipped out behind the tang. It's a solid repair, but just needs to be hidden. SRH
May God bless America and those who defend her.
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