So how many of you use water blue methods. I remember Tony Threadwell liked Marks waterblue for his restorations
If by Water Blue you mean Express Rust Blue,,yes I use it some times. Sometimes I use Slow Rust Blue . Depends on the job and what I'm looking for as a result.
Mark Lee's formula works well and has for years for me.
Express Blue allows a very high polish to remain while bluing as the application doesn't allow for the soln to pit the surface,,unless you get it too hot of course.
Most full re-blu of a set of bbl's or parts from a fresh new polish get a slow rust blue. Laurel Mtn rust brown soln.
I polish to a 220,, don't allow very much rusting in each cycle (no need for a heavy rust coating to get a layer of color). You only encourage the matting and pitting effect of the rusting process by prolonging the slow rusting.
When the parts just start to show a hint of rust color on the surface, they are ready for the boiling water tank.
I might even have to lightly drag my fingers down the hanging bbl to feel the roughness as I can hardly see the color,,it's that faint. It's all that is necessary to make a cycle/layer of blue color.
Yes you can lightly touch/drag the parts like that w/your finger(s) to feel the surface if your hands are dry enough..no picking them up and examining them though. That'll leave marks on the surface.
With the rusting so light on the surface, the water in the tank stays clean longer thru boiling cycles.
With that and couple other techniques I get a nice sheen as an end result.
Not having to go to 280, 320 or then 400 is a blessing to my arms and lungs. They're in bad enough shape!.
