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Joined: Jan 2002
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Would someone explain to me how acid actually sharpens the edges in the rows of cutters on a file? How does it not eat away at all the exposed steel the same amount?

Thanks, SRH


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Stan, I don't know how it works, but I'd guess that the blunted portion of the teeth is etched more than the edges that remain sharp because they offer a larger area for the acid to act on. I hope someone else can offer a proper explanation.


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Stan, my understanding is that it does eat away at all the steel. The original cutting edge become smoother and wider as the rasp or file wears. I don't believe an acid bath can do a controlled sharpening, but I think there's more surface area on the bevels, for the acid to attack, than on the dull edge. So, somewhat of a point starts to reform, as well as an overall rougher texture.

I believe the important part is that it has to be a quality high carbon steel file that is through hardened, so that any steel that's uncovered is also hardened. The thing that I've noticed is that sometimes there're a few random coarser teeth that leave scratches that the same file might have done a bit better job at if new. I suspect it's less of a thought if the tool is intended for wood work. Just opinion, that's all.

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Thanks, craig.

SRH


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I just sent off a 49 and a 50 Nicholson usa made rasps to Boggs tool for sharpening. Looking forward to seeing the results.

I also bought a 50 Liogier rasp for SDH and am quite pleased with how it cuts, very sharp and a nice smooth finish.


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I usually clean my files with a file brush and I've found sometimes it helps to lightly heat them with a torch while brushing.

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Thumbs up for Boggs tool, both rasps sharpened and returned to me for less than 25$.


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Good report, Steve. Have you any idea how they do it? Is it by mechanical cutting, or by acid etch?


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This from the Boggs Tool website:

"We sharpen files, rasps and key cutters using (liquid honing) abrasives driven by steam pressure.

The abrasive blast removes metal from the backsides of the teeth until the edge is reformed. We

make these edges very sharp.



All files are sharpened first, then block-tested and inspected. If they fail, they are marked red.

This means they cannot be sharpened again so please do not send them back to us. These

(rejected) files are vastly improved and will still give you plenty of use.



Rust is not a problem. We can remove most, if not all, of the rust depending on where it is at.

Some brand-new files are not as sharp as they can be when first purchased. We sharpen new files

as well."



I sent them a #49 and a #50 American made Nicholson rasps, fast turn around, sharp and what I felt was deal price wise.

I have had a chance to do some shaping with the Liogier rasp purchased from SDH, that is a superb tool and one that will be with me for years to come. Next up will be one of the smaller 1/2 round rasps he sells for detailing work.


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Thanks, Steve. I've got several very large mill bastard files that are worn badly. May send them a couple to see what they charge.


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