I am going to attempt to make a stock for an L.C. Smith hammer gun. One gentleman I know who duplicates stocks doesn't have a hammer stock to copy and the one that I have is wrong. The heel is narrow and the toe is large, so buttplate is on upside down, plus on the left lock plate inlet is wider at the rear.
I know a side lock is the hardest thing to do, but I have patience and am familiar with hand tools, chisels, chip carving knives, and have most power wood working tools, and would like to attempt to do this. I know the hardest part is the inletting around the side plates. The question I have is should I try the inletting before I rough cut the wood on my bandsaw or bandsaw it first.
Any help would be appreciated. If the inletting is successful, the shaping of the stock should not be a problem. The final checkering, yes that will get to me.
Does the layout look okay? The thickness is at the minimum, 1 1/2" on top and a shade thinner on the bottom. It is a little thinner than should be, but that's what it is.


The wood was given to me by a friend and told me there is more if I mess this one up.
Thanks.

Take the old stock and add bondo to it to make it close but oversize, then have it duplicated and finish it from there.

Hello JDW, You should check on the LCSCA website to see if someone has a pattern building buttstock that you could use to get what you need duplicated. KAKOLAS, spelling incorrect I am sure, does stock duplicating in Pennsylvania. He can get a buttstock roughed out for you if you have a pattern stock for him to follow. Jent ----

http://www.lcsmith.org/index.html

http://members.boardhost.com/lcsmith/

There were 2 basic L C Smith hammerguns made, I do not know if they both use the same buttstock or not.

When I work from a blank I do some rough band sawing around the grip area but not on the butt. That allows you to adjust the drop, length of pull,pitch after the action finds a home. I have only done fifty or so that way and I find that I can make minor changes in the angle the action meets the wood in spite of trying not to. The slab also makes a great place to grab the stock in a vise and really hold on to it. The grain looks right in the pistol grip area.
bill

I would do as subgauge recomended. Build the stock up to where it needs to be with bondo. Duplicators do not get them exact either and some material will still need to be removed. If the guy is good with it he should be able to as much material behind as you request. So where the side plates are have him leave a little bit more than what is missing. I would recommend making a smoke pot to blacken your parts to show what needs to be inleted. Also get a couple of inletting scrapers like those sold by Brownells or Midway. Jerry Fisher and Royal Arms are the brands. I like the Jerry Fisher ones best.

For your first stock I would highly recommend trying to get a duplicated one to inlet. There is a lot to keep in mind while turning a block of wood into a stock. You have a very nice piece of wood and I am sure you do not want to screw it up.

JDW- Jerald Here. This is one I am working on now:

http://www.uplandjournal.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard312a/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=1;t=46581

http://www.uplandjournal.com/cgi-bin/ikonboard312a/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=1;t=46970

As you are aware 1/1/2" is a bit thin but do-able. Mine as shown was that size.

First, cut the top line for the tang. Your layout looks good so far.

Make sure when you fit the head, you are in relation to centerline (CL) as needed. You can cock the top tang as needed for cast. Then fit the bottom tang and rough cut the sides, leaving them full.

On the sides, lay a line inline with the lower frt. edge of the sidelock. This will help you align the lock plate. I like to cut and outline, as I go, with an exacto knife to lessen the chance of splintering.

Must be nice to have a friend with wood like that!!!

What guage?

You have my email and phone if you need to call.-Jerald Ware

Jerald,
It is a 16 ga. hammer gun and that is why I would like to get a stock for it. Made in 1910. I got in in all parts, screws are all buggered, but barrels are nice with a 2 croille Damascus. Slight pitting inside but that doesn't bother me. Bores are .652 and the right barrel is mod, left barrel Skeet's gage will not go in. (.624 head)

I like your work and wish I still had access to a milling machine for some of the rough inletting. I do have a Cyclone flexible shaft (similar to Foredom but faster and more powerful) that I can use for roughing.
I will make a metal template for the side plates and when it comes time to inlet the locks I will use a smudge pot. The previous stock had too much removed in the lock area.

I like your pictures and you gave good advice and I will keep in touch with you as to progress or problems.
Thanks.

How does one make a smoke pot?

I don't know how to make a smokepot but a cheaper, possibly safer alternative is a dry-erase marker used on "white boards"

Blue seems to be the best color in my opinion.

Brent

BrentD- some call me frugal but a good friend says I am a "bottom feeder", 'cause,"if it ain't cheap, I don't own it"!
So., I used a small jelly jar with a tight hole in the lid for a hardware store lamp wick. I fuel it with paint thinner..the cheap stuff because it smokes more.

BTW, blow it out while you are not using it so you have less carbon to breath.-Jerald

I don't doubt it works and if you like it, more power to ya, but I can tell immediately from that chisel, you can afford better if you want... Nice tool.

Me, I have an unabiding worry about accidental fires. Memories of a bad night in childhood I guess.

Brent