I recently picked up a very accurate Browning BAR Mark II Safari, 1993 vintage; the forend has a few cracks which I successfully repaired with cyanoacrylate, but I got a good deal on a new checkered but unfinished factory forend. Any suggestions on how to stain and finish to match the awful shiny epoxy or whatever color and finish on the stock? I know I could just use poly urethane or somesuch thing, but I was hoping someone could give me tips as to how to mimic Browning stain color and finish material??
Thanks ahead of time as always
Rick

For the clear finish, try the Pro-Custom Oil aerosol. It's very durable and dries fast. It can be built up to resemble the clear Browning finishes. I can't tell you anything about matching the stain.

Not to hijack here but I just bought an A Bolt Medallion in 25-06 and it has a few dents in the wood from use. Can you steam through that thick finish?

You need to get the watrer to penetrate the wood to raise dents so unless the finish is gone over the dent you can't really steam through that finish.

The product is a 2 part epoxy type finish. I believe the trade name was Fullerplast.

If it was mine I'd take this opportunity to strip the stock and refinish them together so they look good.

Jeff

Fullerplast was/is a very durable finish. The downside was that it is a nasty carcinogen and I think an air supply was recommended as opposed to a common organic filter respirator. There were other similar performance 2 part polys like the PPG auto finish that we used for R/C airplane models for it's resistance to methanol-nitromethane fuel. Most of these polyurethane 2 part clears were highly toxic and the mfr's recommended air supply systems. I painted my car with one of the PPG polys and used an air supply. Not a trivial thing.

OK, now for the "dumb" question, "How do you remove it short of scraping with sharp piece of glass?" I have tried every possible solution including Brownell's stuff and nothing really works well. Best, Dr. BILL

Gentleman;

From the experience file: Browning has the color mixed into the liquid finish before application. Each coat gets darker and it gives all stock the "same" color batch to batch. There is no dye, stain, or paint that will color over that particular finish....that I know of.

Fullerplast is nasty stuff to breath. Lost a lot of my ability to distinquish smells because of it. I was wearing a respirator, but not air assisted, during the early 80's and 90's. Live and learn.

Dr. Bill, I use JASCO Marine Grade Stripper to attack Browning and Remington finishes. Put it on and keep it wet. It will strip off the finish. Don't get in a hurry, let it work. Don't do too big of an area as the finish will molecularly bond harder to the wood, if left to dry. Wait for the finish to bubble and then remove it with popcycle sticks. It may leave small scrapes but they come out with light 220 sanding.

Bill,
I use any of the Methylene Chloride based strippers, but it always takes about 4-5 go-rounds. Next time I take on the crappy job of stripping one I'm going to try this tip: coat the stock in the death-goo and then wrap the stock and goo in aluminum foil, wait 1/2 an hour and rinse in cold water. The foil wrap is s'posed to keep the goo from drying out like Dennis mentions.

I've got a nice Browning/Miroku 1885 Low Wall in .243 that's waiting for me to get up the gumption to do this cruddy job.

Did a Lightning Trap. No need for glass scraper. Take the gum off with medium ScotchBrite. Will require more than one application of stripper.

jack

Thanks guys. I was sort of hoping for the "magic cure-all", but anything beats the broken glass route! BILL

I have no trouble believing that. FN had all the tricks and the glaze is one. Strip finish from a grade I and you might get a chocolate stock and a very pale forend as regards the natural color cast of the wood.

jack