I found my way here while searching for Newton information. I'm not a collector, but I have two first model Newtons, a .256 that I just recently bought and a .30 Newton that has been in my family since my Great-Grandfather bought it.
I've never shot either of them, but I am planning to do so. I've purchased 100 pieces of brass for each from Jamison's and Quality Cartridge and have die sets for them, RCBS dies for the .30 and CH dies for the .256. The .256 is going to be my deer rifle and I hope to one day hunt moose with the .30. I am planning on shooting either 125 gr. Partitions or 130 gr. Accubonds in the .256 and something similar in 180 gr. for the .30. I've probably found all of the available loading data for both, but if anyone has a load that has worked well for them, I would appreciate any info you would be willing to share as a place to start.
An Uncle of mine has another .30 Newton that he picked up long ago as a rehab project that he hasn't gotten around to doing. As I recall, it's missing the buttplate, the front sight has been changed and whoever had it before him botched a bedding job and left it a mess. I'm thinking that I should take it off his hands and attempt to resurrect it. Anyone know where a Newton buttplate might be found? Or how to remove bedding compound without destroying whats left of the finish? Rob

Welcome to the forum.

I am not very knowledgeable about Newtons but there are a couple folks who are and stop by now and then.

Newton parts are hard to come by and the major firearms gun sites are the best places to monitor for any for sale. I have not done too much reloading for Newtons and hopefully the guy who I rely on for info will stop by and enlighten you. My listed favorite loads for the 256 (a First Model 1916) are 53.6 grains of RL22 with a 120 grain Nosler Ballistic tip or a 125 grain Nosler Partition. I have tried to use 140 grain bullets with average sucess. The rifling in the 1916 is suited to the lighter bullets and the Second Model 1924 has rifling more suited to the 140 grain bullets.
Larry wales

At one time I had twenty nine 256 Newtons but only shot a few of them. There was a restocked one that I hunted with and shot deer, antelope and black bear with it. 48-51 grains of IMR 4350 is what I used. At the upper end, some guns showed signs of high pressures, so be careful.

vinegar might budge the bedding compound, but it might also affect the blueing...

Vinegar WILL affect the bluing. For sure.

Thank you kindly for the responses thus far, more would be welcome as well.

Anyone with experience loading for a .30 Newton?

The bedding compound on the other .30 That I mentioned isn't on metal, it ran out onto the exterior of the stock and was left there. I haven't seen the rifle in years and I can't remember just how much of it there was.

Another point to remember if you plan on shooting an original Newton rifle is the potential weakness of the stocks. Some of the 256s and about half of the 30s and 35s have cracked stocks in the Model 1916 and more in the 1924. These cracks are not always easy to detect. The rifle has to be taken down and carefully inspected behind the magazine and in front of and behind the trigger area. Many times the cracks will only be "hairline" cracks. Obviously, if undetected, they are potential for stock failure especially in the higher calibers. Be careful. Newton rifles without cracks in the stocks are sometimes hard to find and will bring a higher value. If I have someone contact me with an original without a crack in the stock and they want to shoot it, I recommend they obtain an extra stock and use it to shoot the rifle. Again, especially in the 30 and 35 Newton.
Larry Wales

Larry,

My .30 Newton already has such a crack, and I have a .256 with a horrible "custom" stock I would like to replace with an original, or barring that, a clone of an original. Do you have a source for such stocks?

Bill Warren

Bill I have a original that just needs a little bondo on the heel toe etc to get it ready for a pattern and I also have a
un-inletted clone copy. I would be glad to loan you either. The problem is I will be in the hospital for a while and not in commission for a while.And not able to ship right now. But if interested let me know. And when I can would be glad to send you either for you to get a copy made. Whitey

"...Or how to remove bedding compound without destroying whats left of the finish?"

If dried and cured,,it's stuck like it was designed to do.
Things like acetone, and other liquids will remove partially cured epoxy,,but they won't touch it once cured. At least the good stuff. That's how it's formulated and one of it's good properties.
If there was some oil on the wood and/or finish underneath, it may have impaired the epoxy from sticking to it.
In that case some very careful surgical work with a sharp blade can usually lift the stuff off in pieces w/o much damage. If it's stuck to the finish and/or wood itself,,it's stuck and nothing much short of sanding and finishing will remove it.

If you try and lift the remains of it off by getting something like an exacto blade under the edge of an overrun of it, watch carefully that the wood doesn't start to lift with it. In that case stop and figure it's file and block sanding time.

Depending on the piece of wood, what finish is under the epoxy run overs and how open pore the wood was, it'll have filled the pores in too by just settling there and curing.
So when/if you file and sand those areas smooth and level them out to the surrounding wood,,the pores will be filled with the epoxy yet and may effect the final finish color you're trying to match up. Just something to think about and look forward to.

I've admired a couple of Newton rifles floating around the local gunshows of late. Not knowing anything about them and pretty much forgetting to do homework in between views, I just look, admire and walk on. Awfully nice looking rifles though. One is priced at $1300 the other at $1700 IIRC and have been for several shows now. ,,,and I still couldn't tell you which model, ect they are.
I guess the price is out of line according to any local Newton-ites. Or maybe there are none.

One source for gunstocks that I have listed is The Great American Gunstock Company. Have not done business with them altho seems like sometime in the past, I inquired about making Newton stocks and they said they could duplicate them. Not sure of cost altho I am sure it will be based somewhat on what wood you could use. As I remember, the price was not too out of line. If you didn't care about looks too much and jsut wanted a shooter, a fiberglass stock might work well.