doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Clean/re-lube a Western arms (long range )20 gauge

Been awhile since the last post and don't remember if I ask this before but; what needed to clean/lube a Western Arms By Ithaca 20 gauge??
Will just removing the stock and giving it a blast of solvent then one of break-free do the job or do I need to drop the trigger group (or whatever you call it) too?
Also is just removing the stock bolt on this shotgun enough to pull the stock, to get at the works.
What are the look out for/don't do that procedures I will need??
Thanks, wb.

You might remove the stock but DON'T do anything else.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it!

i don't take stuff apart unless i really need to. those gun pins were almost made to be screwed up by turnscrews. inter-dental or air gun brushes can be quite useful. i bought good supply of $1.50/pack air gun brushes at biglots when they had them.

I like to boil actions in water and a dash of dish washing detergent. I then wash it off hot with the hottest water that comes from the faucet. Flush with WD 40, to kill the moisture dry, and us a good lube on it. Carb cleaner works very well but after rust is a big problem due to the total lack of oil on all surfaces.
bill

I agree with Bill with but one exception. I keep my water heater temp set fairly low, so my rinse will also be done in boiling water. I simply dump the detergent mix, rinse the pot, refill & boil. Leave it in long enough to come up to temp & it will virtually dry itself upon removal, particularlly a large part. Only a light WD-40 treatment is then required for any remaining pockets of moisture & then the regular lube & you're all set.

You can absolutely eliminate any residual moisture with a quick dip in acetone, after the metal cools a bit. That's one of the few things I remember from high school chemistry, and it eliminates the alleged varnishing that is attributed to WD-40. Just make sure you get a thorough coating of light oil on the entire mechanism. I think a dip in Ballistol followed by some compressed air and a complete wipe down of all exterior surfaces could be the ticket. You can also mix Ballistol with water (50/50) to achieve a light oil film, but I'd be reluctant to reintroduce moisture to the mechanism unless I baked the parts at about 240F after oiling to evaporate any remaining water and leave just the Ballistol film.

I throw the whole action into a bread pan filled with mineral spirits for a day or so then blow it out with compressed air.

OK so I can: boil it, bake it, put in the dish washer But?

Will just removing just the stock bolt let me get at the action AND is there anything I should be careful of removing said stock/bolt and whatever????

Yes you will get at the entire action and yes do use a socket with extension instead of a big screwdriver on the throughbolt.