S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
0 members (),
443
guests, and
5
robots. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
Forums10
Topics38,612
Posts546,976
Members14,427
|
Most Online1,344 Apr 29th, 2024
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 42
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 42 |
I picked up a bottle of Galazan's Case Color Laquer - but it arrived without instruction. Anyone? Wipe the surface down with acetone? Will the acetone harm the case color? How many coats? Lightly steel wool between coats?
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 277 Likes: 5
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 277 Likes: 5 |
I bought a 'left over' Launch Edition RBL last winter and was wondering about the clear coat over the case colors. Acetone may not harm the metal, but how about the wood (in case of a spill, etc?) I use a 91% isopropyl alcohol for certain types of cleaning. I wonder if it may be safer?
GMC(SW) - USN, Retired (1978-2001)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 42
Sidelock
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 42 |
Rounds' - good point, about the wood. In my case, I have two L.C.s torn down to rehab the stocks, so, I'm not working near the wood. I do, however, want to use the lacquer on some of my assembled guns. I called Galazan's and they confirmed the use of acetone, and to apply only one very light coat with a Q-tip. I tried that, and the result is quite pleasing, and the metal can be lightly handled in about 30 minutes. This stuff goes a long way and I'll have plenty to apply to my entire arsenal!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,742 Likes: 57
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,742 Likes: 57 |
The original finish over L.C. Smiths was either varnish or shellac. To remove true lacquer you need lacquer remover, varnish, mineral spirits, shellac, alcohol. Most of the stock/forend wood on the lesser grades was shellac, and they went over the metal as well.
David
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,598 |
I have a bottle of the stuff. My experience is that it has a yellowish cast that I do not care for. Tru-oil works just as well, along with many other products.
Pete
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 277 Likes: 5
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 277 Likes: 5 |
I have even heard Tru-Oil recommended for application over refurbished barrels of twist or Damascus construction. Does that sound right?
GMC(SW) - USN, Retired (1978-2001)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,964 Likes: 89
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,964 Likes: 89 |
Formby's tung oil works great and results in a very smooth, hard finish when dry. Works great on barrels too! I just swab it on thin with a folded paper work towel. I tape off the wood when working close to it. Formby's offers it in either gloss or satin. I prefer the satin though it's still a bit glossy when dry.
When an old man dies a library burns to the ground. (Old African proverb)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 474
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 474 |
Lacquer can be easily removed with a cloth dampened with lacquer thinner. So, when the coating starts looking bad it is easy to remove and renew.
On the other hand, Tru-oil or tung oil, after a full cure, will not be so easily removed. A quick appplication of acetone or lacquer thinner will not do much. You need paint remover( or something else with methylene chloride in it) to get it off.
OB
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,642 Likes: 1 |
Here from someone who really knew what he was doing:
"Posted by Oscar Gaddy (Member # 38) on November 16, 2003, 12:58 PM: For some time, I have been using a clear-coat aerosol spray-on lacquer made and sold by Behlens. It is a true cellulose lacquer that you can spray on and have a very uniform coat without bubbles and running with just a little care in application. When you need to redo it, it can easily be removed by merely soaking the parts in acetone. I have been very pleased with it's performance and I use it on all Damascus barrels that I refinish and on some guns that I color caseharden if the owner wants a protective coating.
Whatever you use, I recommend that you completely strip the internal parts and degrease carefully before applying the protective coating. You will then need to lubricate the appropriate parts and places when you reassemble.
Oscar Gaddy"
JC
"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance." Charles Darwin
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 680
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 680 |
The small bottles of cellulose lacquer sold in hobby shops works just as well and a small bottle will do a whole bunch of guns. I dilute it 50/50 with lacquer thinner and apply two coats with a camel hair artists brush.
|
|
|
|
|