doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Cleaning up an older Uggie

I think it's worth the $300. Wonko used to have a recipe for removing that oil and someone here prolly has a copy around. I think it's a pretty nice basic gun if it's tight on face and the barrels are good.

Wonko's brew can be a little potent for old wood. But, even with the "works" performed by someone like Cole Haugh, you would have no more than 1K, and, likely, several hundred less, into a FITTED, and freshly vetted side by side. Don't underestimate what kind of money it could take to get into something like that, in a different gun. And, don't underestimate the value of a fitted gun.
The Uggys have a reputation of being no nonsense performers day in and day out. It is hard to beat an A & D boxlock for use, and for frustrating Murphy's law.

Best,
Ted

I bought an older Uggie as a gift for my brother: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=196727981
Quote:
"I'd like to clean it up a bit but I'd also like to have it ready to give him at Thanksgiving, so a complete refinish isn't really an option:"

Sometimes this forum is funny and often it's hilarious. This is one of those times. This guy asked for quick clean up instructions to make a gun presentable and that's what I gave him several posts ago. Just look at what has evolved on this thread!
It reminds me of the old saying "If you ask an "expert" the time he'll tell you how to build a watch."
Jim

....I guess you are the expert on how all post should end after you have given your advice..sort of an expert expert.

You can do it either way. Just watch the edges of the metal and the wood, you will rub the remaining finish off those very quickly.

Best,
Ted

Those who can't confine themselves to answering the question will sometimes answer the question you're going to have later. Take a poll, weed out the extremes of cost, downtime, exotic and potentially hazardous "treatments" (stock floating in a sea of acetone IS one, in case Ted was overly tactful and you missed it). What is left is the majoritarian get er did approach which usually involves a "spruceup" with the shinola at hand. Amazing what a bit of shoe polish and a coat of Ballistol can do. I'd start by scrubbing the mud off the bitter end of the pad and clean/lube the action, hingepin, and bolting, scrub out the bores no matter how good they look. Don't make the gun into those birthday present sweaters I used to get from my dear Auntie. "I have to take it back to add the right sleeve and finish the neck," she said, "but I thought you'd want to see it before I do." Last time I ever saw most of them. A present is not a promissory note.

jack

PS: Heating the stock head will bring some of that gunoil out of the pores and whiting (chalk) will absorb it. You will need several "iterations" of that also so maybe just shoot it $300 worth is the advice most easy of accomplishment.

Thanks for the tip.

This might be obvious, but I haven't used shoe polish on a gun before. I'm guessing you mean use the neutral polish as a stock topcoat? If so, any tips for getting it out of the checkering after application?

A stiff-bristled toothbrush.

Whatever wax you use, apply it to the checkering with a stiff tootbrush and brush all of it out before you walk away from the gun. Whatever is left is going to be enough. The wax finish can fill the pores, but should leave just a microscopically thin film on the surface.

Yes, I do. I also like your idea of 0000 steel wool and WD-40, on the metal parts. It will likely remove very light rust spots without hurting the CC or blue. Also a good chance the firing pins are buggered or bent. Easy to make new ones or cleanup minor damage to the old ones.