doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Stock Making / Fitting

Chuck;
If you ever get bored with that project I'll take it off your hands....I'd even pay the shipping.

Just eyeballing the angles relative to the head of the stock, it seems it will be practically a parallel comb with very little drop from nose to heel and also very minimal pitch. Yes?

Did you bend the lower tang on that gun?

Mike,
that's an optical illusion just the way the stock was layed down in the pic. The stock actually is a very conventional 1 1/2" DAC x 2 3/8" DAH with plenty of wood for a 15" plus LOP. Therefore, the pitch is also very conventional, where it is about 90 degrees to the comb it would be a few degrees when mounted on the action. No tang bending was needed. This was an orig straight stock Parker GH, #1 frame, 26" bbls (damascus), .040/.005 choke, 6lb 8oz little gem. I thought long and hard before comitting to restock it. But the stock was beat up bad and didn't fit me.

I'm no stockmaker and really struggle with inletting. I've done some rifle stocks over the years and a partial shotgun stock, a few shotgun stock patterns with Bondo, etc. I'm reluctant to do any further work without reading more and buying some more inletting tools to do it right on this one.

Thanks for that, Chuck. Wow, was I fooled by the pics. I'm with you; the inletting task is a necessary evil that stands between me and the finishing/checkering that I love.

ttt for Jake.

Chuck
You'll have to let us know where that stick of firewood came from. Seems to have too much going on for a simple Parker.

Dan

I bought that one and another piece of English with a light colored feather for $500 on ebay.

I thought the one I used for the Parker was the lessor of the two. Maybe not.

Chuck
That's a very nice looking blank, for sure.
Who would you recommend for duplicating- or machine inletting a blank? I've seen some less than stellar work in the past; rough cutting with torn and feathered wood, usable but not pretty to look at. I'd prefer to have the inletting machined clean and sharp, despite the fact that you'll have to end-fit the wood. The excuse that the inletted areas wouldn't be visible from the outside and the rough surfaces wouldn't interfere the least with the function of the stock didn't sit too well with me.

Have you had a chance to browse through the David Wesbrook book? How do you like it?

Frank,
I've just skimmed some sections of the Wesbrook book so far. Some good techniques/tips in there. It's worth the cost IMO.

I really don't have enough experience with doing woodwork/stockwork to recommend anyone (I'm not qualified) for machining a blank. The few that I've used many years ago had their own issues. A few rifle blanks I did were hacked and chopped badly. The two shotguns I'm doing, the one shown I haven't checked the work but it took a long time for delivery, and the other one another fella did was poorly done. So, I'll defer to others for a recommendation.

based on the photos just above which appear to be of a non-inletted stock with no "extra' wood on the comb to account for fitting adjustments--I'm wondering if those of you who have used the bondo duplication method to make a fairly exact copy of a stock have had problems with inletting so as to make the DAH and other measurements exactly correct?? I would have thought you'd at least leave the comb higher than you wanted to account for the "amplification" of drop that would happen with a very minor inletting difference?? Any insight would be appreciated, as I am thinking about how to approach a future project...
thanks,
Dave

David,
I think that stock is 99% inletted. That knob on the end of the duplicated stock is what the duplicating machine hangs on to...it needs to be cut off and only that area where it attaches will have to be inletted.

Check out MK's info page:
http://www.gunstockduplicating.com/duplication.html