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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 209 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 209 Likes: 1 |
Anyone ever use one of these tools for DIY bore honing?
It's available in 180, 400 and 800 grit sizes, I was wonder which would be best for very light pitting or frosting and general clean-up.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 51
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 51 |
I would go with the 800 grit and use honeing oil to start with,that way you won't take to much off trying to get rid of any pitting.
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 51
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 51 |
I have used 0000 steel wool on a wooden dowel to polish a bore,Works for minor stuff.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496 |
RC: If you want to clean up some pits, use the 180 grit followed by the 800 for a polish. I've used these hones and they don't take out much metal, even at the 180 level. As said, use some honing oil.
Best, Kensal
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21 |
The ball type of flex-hones are not a good choice for removing pitting of any significance. I've used the 180 grit and finer for honing chambers and forcing cones after cutting them and they work fine for that. But if you think about a ball of what amounts to a grinding stone, on the end of a flexible wire, running across a pit, you can envision it dropping into the pit and jumping out of it. This would/could make for a irregular removal of metal.
Even a makeshift hone with a cleaning rod and bore brush wrapped with a rag and saturated with some Clover carborundum compound would be more effective in my opinion. As a bonus, it's cheap and available at nearly any hardware or autoparts store.
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Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 496 |
Chuck: With all due respect, I've used these hones for a while now. And they DO take down some light pitting. They won't remove light or especially heavy pitting, but they do help. And bore seems to come down evenly. For serious pits, a reamer is the answer. I also understand your expertise.
Best, Kensal
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 209 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 209 Likes: 1 |
I can understand the premise that the flexhone would be better for removing proud metal (toolmarks) rather than removing metal evenly to the depths of the pits.
However, I've used steel wool and products like chrome polish, the smooth surface becomes mirror-like while the pits are untouched.
I'd just like to have easier to clean bores and less concern about corrosion. Down here with the humidity, if the bores aren't chrome, you're constantly fighting rust in even slightly rough bores.
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Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,815 Likes: 4 |
I agree with Kensal, I have used them and they do a good job at removing some roughness. I have been in Brileys shop and they use them for polishing also.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 13,883 Likes: 21 |
Kensal, No problem, I did say "...of any significance...". Given enough time the flex hones will remove some measureable metal, but from my experiences, I'd use another method for pitting removal.
Regards Chuck
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 638
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 638 |
Like Kensel, I have used a 180 grit to smooth the edges of pitting and 800 grit to polish. For light pitting try the 800 first.
USMC Retired
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