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Joined: Nov 2011
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Sidelock
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Joined: Nov 2011
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This is my first post on this great board.

After many years of looking at pictures and reading about the Darne sliding breech and its great handling characteristics, I finally got my hands on one. It's a sweet little 20-gauge R15 made in 1970 and imported by Firearms Center, Inc. a few years later. With 25.5" barrels and a sunken rib, it weighs 5.6 pounds and points about like you'd expect. It has a few battle scars, and the fit, finish, and engraving all fall a bit short of the best R15s from either the old Darne or the current Bruchet-Darne production, but I love the gun and expect it will be near the top of my modest grouse-quail-woodcock arsenal for the duration.

My question is whether anyone can recommend a gunsmith with experience working on these guns. There's an issue with the safety that clearly needs to be resolved, and I'd like it given a general check-up, cleaning, and lube. I know of at least two smiths with national reputations and have emailed both. One didn't return my email, while communication from the other has been inconsistent and spotty enough to lead me to seek other options.

I'm in Nashville and would love to find someone in or near Tennessee, but the main thing is finding a smith who knows these guns who will answer emails and give straight answers to basic questions.

I'd be grateful for any suggestions!

Joined: May 2012
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Joined: May 2012
Posts: 68
You may want to contact Game Fair Ltd in Nashville. If you haven't visited the store, it is worth the trip since it is one of the better gun stores in the US for fine guns and supply's.

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You might tell us who you tried so we don't recommend them to you. I have a name in mind and will wait for your reply.

Joined: Feb 2002
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Joined: Feb 2002
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I would suggest contacting:

Geoffroy Gournet
820 Paxinosa Ave, Easton PA 18042 

Tel: 610-559-0710

Email: ggournet@yahoo.com
See: http://www.gournetusa.com

Berrien

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There were two styles of R safety mechanisms in the James Wayne era-a push button safety, and the more conventional rotating lever. The parts from these are not interchangable, and, of the two, the lever is the more secure and fool proof design. You haven't been clear about the exact problem, but, if the gun is a push button safety, and the button has rotated in the breech block, the safety will not work. It is a simple matter to remove the breech and inspect the retainer spring to see if it is riding on the flat of the safety button.
My conversations with Geoffroy have led me to believe that general repair work gets in the way of his engraving, and he doesn't actively pursue repair or stockwork, a pity, as he is quite qualified in either area.
During the decade + that I imported Darne shotguns, I utilized Kirk Merrington for any warranty or repair issues that came up. At that time I set Kirk up with communication with the builder for any technical matters he might have to deal with
that I couldn't answer. A FAX with a simple line drawing and short explaination from the French makers can be an extremely valuable thing in the event repair becomes needed on a Darne, and I suspect they would still be willing to provide that to Kirk.
The Darne works has been sold, and while I have no clue what the current owners plans are, then, as now, the trouble is spare, rough parts for repair work.
Kirk has a website, to a large degree his wife handles paperwork and email. I would suggest you contact him for repair of a Darne. Google him.

By way of illustration:
The photo shows the safety button spring on an R model Darne, in this case a rotating lever version. The pen is pointing to the end of the spring that must ride on the flat of the shaft of the safety button or lever. You may have to rotate the button to get that to happen. If one side of the safety button is larger than the other, rotate the large side clockwise, as the shaft is two pieces, and rotating counter-clockwise will result in the shaft coming apart. Don't use a vise grips to do that, mate.



Best,
Ted

Joined: Jun 2008
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Hello Billwolfe
Welcome on your first posting
Pleased to have you here.

http://www.merringtongun.com/

Last edited by skeettx; 11/27/13 12:15 PM.

USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
Joined: Nov 2011
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Joined: Nov 2011
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Thanks to everyone who's replied to my post. John Allen of Game Fair actually handled the transfer when I bought the gun. Consulting him on who he's used for repair work was on the list and maybe should have been done before posting here. I'll certainly give him a call.

I've emailed both Geoffroy Gournet and Kirk Merrington, based largely on discussion in this and similar forums. Mr. Gournet has been responsive but pretty terse. I get the impression he is very busy. I haven't heard from Mr. Merrington. It's only been 5 days since I emailed him at the start of a weekend leading to a holiday week, so I'll probably give it some time.

The gun has the cross-bolt safety that protrudes from either the left or right side of the receiver. Pushed right-to-left, the protruding portion shows a red band, indicating the gun is ready to fire. Pushed left-to-right, it is supposed to be in "safe" mode. On a whim, I decided to give the safety a trial and was dismayed to see the bolt migrate from safe to live position in response to pressure on the front trigger, followed by a released firing pin. Not good!

Ted, are you saying that a simple rotation of the cross bolt might solve the problem? That would certainly worth a cautious try.

Thanks again to all!

Bill

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Bill,
Yes. I've seen this movie already.

Note the spring that the tip of the pen is pointing at. It may be necessary to lift this spring slightly, with a dental pick or similar tool, and rotate the red band end of the safety button clockwise, so the flat on the shaft of the safety button that the spring is supposed to be in contact with is in proper position. Have a helper, wearing a leather glove (the machined ends are quite sharp) hold/support the block while you attempt the manuever.

Or send it to Kirk. He will give the gun a good once over with a strip and clean. A Darne really doesn't need this type of service that frequently, either.

Best,
Ted

Joined: Jan 2002
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Billwolfe,
OK, so, what happened? I was hoping to hear you turned the little bugger a bit, and then went out and shot a limit of quail.
Anyway, best of luck with it. Here is a photo of the two that I own, an R10 model in 12 gauge, and a V19 in 28 gauge. I'll probably use the 12 tomorrow in Steele county, MN., in pursuit of ditch parrots.



Best,
Ted

Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 182
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Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 182
Thanks for asking, Ted. I took the breech block off and fiddled with it a bit. I can see the flat of the cross bolt and where the safety spring should ride--it's not that far off, but I couldn't get enough purchase on the opposite end of the bolt to get it to rotate. I'll call Kirk on Monday and see if he'll take it on. A general strip/clean/lube/checkup seems like a good idea anyway.

Meanwhile, I seem to have caught a case of double-gun acquisitive disorder from hanging around places like this too much. I'm awaiting shipment of a 16-gauge Manufrance Robust 202. It's the plainest model Robust but looks to be in remarkable shape and weighs 5.75 pounds with 70-cm barrels (SK1 & M) and 70-mm chambers. I'll post some pics and other details in a new topic.

Thanks again to all who replied regarding the Darne. Will let you know how it goes. Meanwhile, it works just fine for skeet!
Bill

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