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#377443 09/10/14 11:13 PM
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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Hey folks, I have stumbled across a grade 3 smith in 12 with 28" barrels. It's not terrible, but not great either. The wood looks to have been replaced (not checkered, wood gaps in stock only partially filled) but seems to be well inletted and although capped with a throughly disformed hard rubber orange pad, seems to be salvageable with a bit of work.

The gun has the slightest tick when closed and shaken by the barrels, but there is no perceptible movement or gap of any kind. When the gun is open, it seems a bit more loose than the lefevers and aubreys that I am used to handling, but I am not sure if that's the norm here or not.

The bores are not perfect, but on their face, look shootable. I didn't have a choke gauge with me, so I haven't a clue what they are.

Attached are some photos. I have a soft spot for saving damascus barreled guns. I know the man who owns the shop and I think I can get the gun for $500.

Thoughts? Worth a project? Things I haven't checked and should pertaining to Smiths?












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Sidelock
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Last edited by shanebevel; 09/10/14 11:32 PM.
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Sidelock
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If $500 will buy it, please do so or let us know & we will.

Best Regards, George


To see my guns go to www.mylandco.com Select "SPORTING GUNS " My E-Mail palmettotreasure@aol.com
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Sidelock
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you cant go wrong at 500 for a shootable graded Smith


gunut
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Dates to about 1896. Remarkable contrast still, but looks to have some surface rust and terrible things happen to nice barrels in 120 years. 'Looks shootable' and is shootable is the difference between a jewel and a parts gun. Question 1 through 9 is what is the wall thickness?
This might help also
http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/buying.html

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Sidelock
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I have a Quality 3 and fitted a spare set of Briley 20 gauge tubes to the gun.

So I shoot full up 20 gauge ammo in mine, about the same as 12 gauge reduced ammo loads.



Mike

Last edited by skeettx; 09/11/14 10:54 AM.

USAF RET 1971-95 [Linked Image from jpgbox.com]
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Sidelock
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28" tubes were uncommon in Gr 3's. Check the chokes, and, as Drew said, the bores and wall thickness.

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Sidelock
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Sidelock

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Thanks guys, the only tool I have available is a micrometer, will checking bore/chamber thickness/end tube thickness give me a ballpark idea? I know it's not a full check of the tubes of course. Thoughts on what numbers I should be looking for in those three areas? About to head that way.

Thanks for all the advice as always.

Shane

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Sidelock
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http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/thickness.html

The 12g choke constriction should start about 2 1/2" from the muzzle, but of course the chokes may have been opened at some point.

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The buttstock on my No 3 was unfortunately shortened at one time then ended out. I hope to get a "Butt Transplant" done one of these days funds permitting. It was made in 1903 and other than the butt is in quite nice condition.
Jim


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