doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Loose forend

I have a question on how to tighten a barrel stop. This gun is a Holland type side lock gun. The forend has a small amount of side to side play at the knuckle. No fore to aft play. No up and down looseness either. Looking at the parts I notice that the barrel stop is slightly loose in the frame. Just loose enough to cause the play. Not sure what's needed to repair this. Ideas? Thanks!

Chief

In one of the Jack Rowe Midway USA SXS videos, Jack addresses that issue. It's on youtube.
I don't particularly agree with the method used, but hey, He's Jack Rowe. He knows better than I do.

I am sure clapper is referring to using a thin rectangular punch at the end of the for-end iron slot adjacent to the barrel for- end catch. By moving metal with the punch it removes the play between the barrel catch and the for-end iron slot. This method Jack Rowe demonstrates is the method preferred rather than removing the play by welding and all that goes with it re-bluing etc. It does come over as a sort of second rate repair but you would be surprised how many older guns have been repaired in this way.

I watched Mr. Rowe's video. I understand the idea of forcing the fore end iron into the knuckle. I would try that except there is no fore to aft, (horizontal)or vertical play in my gun's case. The play is side to side and slight, one of those things that isn't causing a functional problem, just annoying. I thought about peening the barrel stop to tighten it up in the action. I'm reluctant to do that without some study. I would like to get the barrel stop out of the action and have a look at how it is fitted. I have another gun that I can remove a screw and get the barrel stop out. This one has no apparent easy way. Maybe the hinge pin has to come out to get at it?

Thanks for the responses!

A lot of those Jack Rowe videos on YouTube promote repairs that seem second rate to me.

This one make me cringe right from the beginning (toplevers on English guns should be centered!):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXbrmmiSngw

OWD

Some repairs need to be done as they are done. Sometimes there are alternative choices. I won't spend weeks carefully building up surfaces and then filing them off, unless they are worn or broken.
Most old guns weren't made to aerospace tolerances.
They need not be repaired to them either. They need to work as designed.
There's a century of reasons behind why an American Arms gun feels so crude compared to a BSS.

Funny aside, I struck up all the ripples, gouges, scratches, and dents, from a set of 32" Ithaca barrels. I tapered them as perfectly as sunlight allows. I polished them to the most even 400 I've ever reached. A miracle of improvement.
I was so proud.
I rust blued them about 10 cycles, mesmerized by their perfection. My last file stroke would denote my best work.
When done, I attached them and headed to a vintage shoot, eager to show my handiwork.
When I took the skeet field, the glare from those barrels was so bright, it was like striking an arc when I raised them! I had to change guns for fear I'd go blind.
Shot like a 15. Pride goeth before a fall.
Let the technology of the day be itself. Don't perfect Crescent, Baker, and LC Smith sideplate fit. It wasn't ever perfect to start.

JMHO.

OK,OK, Gotta say this, you would be amazed what a little masking tape would do on the underside of the forend wood near the front end.

Just saying ...

Mike

all these magical gunsmiths that we envision as being artists swing the same 2 lb hammer as bubba....they just use a little more knowhow, discretion, and better punches....and take the time to hide the repair [at $$$ an hour]..

Mike, you gave me that advice a couple of years back and it worked brilliantly...little skill required, everyone has the materials, can be redone as many times as needed, and completely reversible.