|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
|
1 members (CLG),
457
guests, and
4
robots. |
|
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Forums10
Topics39,498
Posts562,104
Members14,586
| |
Most Online9,918
Jul 28th, 2025
|
|
|
|
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,941 Likes: 19
Sidelock
|
Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 2,941 Likes: 19 |
If it gets too tacky just rub on some fresh Tru Oil and the tacky coat will rub right off. Bobby
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 916 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 916 Likes: 1 |
I usually don't dilute Tru-Oil,but let it dry completly and take it down to bare wood(I use steelwool on open areas and backed up fine abrasive paper near corners,etc).After cleaning with a tackcloth,the open pores can be seen.Repeat as many times as necessary to fill all pores(the finish is in the wood).Then you can do any final finish you like.I usually just rub one coat of boiled linseed oil and if it gets spotted or scratched in use,buff it up with steelwool and rub on oil again.
Mike I've done only one, but this approach worked fine for me. After a few thin coats I no longer took it down to bare wood -- just far enough where I was reaching the level of the partially filled pores. About half a dozen coats was enough to fill them. Seems to me this method was what the maker's instructions prescribed? It turned out very well. Jay
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 231 |
+1 on not thinning the Tru oil except maybe the first coat. You could even add a bit of spar varnish for a coat or two to speed up the pore filling.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150
Sidelock
|
|
OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 150 |
What I find fascinating in this thread is that no one mentions the lack of working time you have with Tru Oil, It gets tacky and gums up so fast that you have almost no time to flatten it out in a thin layer. I cannot comprehend wet sanding with straight or even thinned Tru Oil for this reason.
The times I've used Tru Oil, I've thiined it with mineral spirits and added boiled linseed to slow it down and allow it to be applied in very thin coats. A little Japan drier helps to counteract the linseed's longer curing time.
JR The thinning of it helps slow down drying time. And also using it when fresh helps too. If it has started to thicken up in the bottle from sitting, then drying time is reduced when working with it. When doing wet sanding filler coats, you don't have to work the whole stock at once. A section at a time is fine. I rarely use Tru Oil anymore, but there are some jobs that it works well for. To slow down the Tru-oil drying up in the bottle you can leave the foil seal on the bottle and just poke a small hole through it. This will limit the amount of air. I also store the bottle upside down so if a fil develops it will be at the bottom of the bottle. Are there some ready made options instead of Tru-oil?
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 6,457 Likes: 336 |
Victory, the late Russ Rupple used to replace the Tru Oil used with marbles in his Tru Oil container. This raised the level enough to limit the air drying the oil, so he claimed.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,854 Likes: 118 |
"The times I've used Tru Oil, I've thiined it with mineral spirits and added boiled linseed to slow it down and allow it to be applied in very thin coats. A little Japan drier helps to counteract the linseed's longer curing time.
JR
John, so you added more linseed oil to what Tru Oil already has in it.
Daryl, you can also put the bottle cap down and trap any air that will now be at the bottom.
Last edited by JDW; 08/07/15 12:44 PM.
David
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 349 Likes: 12
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 349 Likes: 12 |
At the risk of topic shift....
I have been reading this thread as well as the 31 page discussion with great interest. I appreciate all of the insight provided therein. I have a related question about earlier in the process...
How many times and at what point does one raise the grain/whiskers with water? I'm in the middle of a stock and did so after completion of 220 grit. I've now finished, dry sanding, to 400 grit. Should I be dousing the stock again?
Apologies if I am hijacking this conversation--not at all my intent. It's all related, at least, in my head.
Thank you,
Hoot
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5
Boxlock
|
|
Boxlock
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 5 |
Not to hijack this thread either but I recently refinished a stock (a new AyA with sub par factory job, imo) following some of the good advice on this board.
For my project, Tru Oil worked well to fill pores but did not give me the desired results for sheen. I tried rottenstone with ultra fine scotch brite after giving it ample time but it looked a bit off to me. Not to mention, Tru Oil is not easy to work with. I agree that straight out of the bottle you get very little time to work with it.
Next I sanded it down and tried Slacum oil. This may have worked but since I'm an impatient American I was not able to get the desired results. Also, I attempted this during April in New York so the weather was not accommodating for drying.
After sending is back down again I finally settled on pure tung oil thinned 50/50 with citrus solvent. This stuff is amazing to work with. It rubs in nicely, is forgiving, has the perfect satin look and feel, and at the 50/50 rate goes on thin and dries relatively quickly. After about 20 coats I'm looking forward to shooting this fall.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,438 Likes: 1
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 7,438 Likes: 1 |
I have discovered that there's one cardinal set of rules that applies to stock refinishing and this is to have patience and take your time. The results you attain regardless of the specific method will be directly related to your ability to allow applications to dry properly before proceeding, taking that extra time when sanding if sanding is required and applying as many thin coats as necessary to properly complete the job.
Rush through any of these steps, and I know this from past first hand experience, and the result will at best be a mediocre finish.
Jim
Last edited by James M; 08/07/15 03:45 PM.
The 2nd Amendment IS an unalienable right.
|
|
|
|
|
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673
Sidelock
|
|
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,786 Likes: 673 |
There is a product called Blox which is an inert gas in an aerosol can which is used to stop paint and finishes from skinning over or drying in the can or bottle. It is heavier than air, and a shot is put in to displace the air in the can on the surface of the unused finish just before replacing the lid.
I do the same thing with the argon/CO2 gas in my MIG welder. I just loosen the wire feed wheels and pull the trigger to dispense the inert shielding gas into paint or finish cans. It works well and is much cheaper than Blox, but not quite as convenient.
Voting for anti-gun Democrats is dumber than giving treats to a dog that shits on a Persian Rug
|
|
|
|
|
