doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Any suggestions on fixing issue w/ Parker?

Hello,

To cut to the chase, what is the best option to 'permanently' plug the 'key' areas under the rib on a 12g SxS that was cut down?

My goal is to keep the firearm as a reliable shooter, which, to me, probably means less thand 400 rounds through it a year- and closer to 200.

In my ignorance, I picked up a Parker Trojan from 1916 that I now am darned sure was cut down.

There are openings at the muzzle end that match the images I've seen.



Also, measuring the bore gives a choke of IC [R] and C [L] for the barrels, which doesn't make sense to me, unless the barrel was cut back and this is the remainder of the bore constriction going toward a Full [r] and a Modified [L].

I don't want to 'restore' the shotgun. I simply want it to work very well, for a long time. Beauty is not paramount, but is relevant.

I am not a fan of the JB Weld approach as a filler/bonder/sealant to this key area, but I could possibly live with it- maybe.

I'm hoping there is a decent SxS gunsmith that I could ship the barrels to and they could simply do their magic to install/solder keys into those blanks, and in my fantasy I hear a price of under $200 whispered back to me.

I am in a realm of fantasty, I know.

Any suggestions?


I do not now, and cannot see in the next 10 years, shoot long-guns enough to warrant a lot of money spent. I probably go through 100 rounds in my shotguns in a given year, if I am lucky- and that is split between 8 shotguns. I do not hunt or compete. I am an accumulator, who appreciates the quality, history/heritage and 'style' of the classic SxS and O/U shotguns.

I mention this last bit for context. I am a user, not a 'collector' who is concerned about the pristine matching characteristics.

Or, I wouldn't have bought this shotgun. I didn't notice this barrel chop at first. What I did notice was the beautiful example of a gunstock master who grafted a Monte Carlo type riser to the stock: and it looks like it was done in the 1960s. I respect the quality, but it detracts from any collector value it might have had.

Thus, the ugly stick has already hit the gun twice.

Any suggestions/tips?

Easy fix, I can solder New keels in for you.
Steve

That was simple.


Best,
Ted

Yes. It was!

Barrels off in mail Monday!

Thanks Steve.

Jason

Brownell's used to sell powdered steel that was great mixed with JB Weld for this kind of fix. Very strong and looked correct. Steve will make it near perfect.
JR

Yep,

I'm looking forward to being able to take it to the range and see what it feels like. I bought it, but haven't shot it as I didn't like the look of that muzzle area. Didn't want it to spread before I could get it fixed.

Thanks to Steve again for such a prompt offer of help- and understanding my desires perfectly: not a showstopper, but a shooter that is safe and reliable.

I am getting to love this board!

Now I have questions for other threads- related to the other 2 'classic' SxS I picked up: a 1948 LC Smith (improved) Field 12g, and a 1960 J.P. Sauer & Sohn Model 60 Deluxe.

The gun would have been just fine to shoot as is.

Probably. But, it will look finished at the muzzles when it is done. I know how the OP feels, looking at a poorly finished barrel end is like having a pretty girl with a piece of cabbage stuck between her front teeth at the dance.

Best,
Ted

Be careful Ted. Talking about girls with cabbage stuck in their teeth will make Jagermeister horny.

Cut barrels wouldn't explain why you have more choke in the R one than the L after they've been shortened. Still should be more open R, tighter L . . . if you have any choke at all remaining.