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#566592 03/04/20 11:54 PM
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Gary N Offline OP
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OK so this is my first SXS so if my terminology is wrong I apologize. I noticed a small hairline "crack" near the boxlock itself on the butt stock so decided to open her up to take a look how deep it was and how best to fix it.... Its just a surface scratch it seems. But the interior of the stock does have cracks (where the action itself sits). What is the best course of action in this area? Please advise, it would be greatly appreciated.

Gary

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Gary, is there any way you could post some close up pics of the cracked areas? It would make it much easier to give pertinent suggestions.

SRH


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Depends on how bad the cracks are, but generally when faced with this sort of thing I do my best to get as much oil out of the wood as I can, and then force glue into the cracks. I pry open the cracks using small screwdriver or wooden wedges. I thin the wood glue just a bit and then dab it into the cracks and use compressed air to push it in as deep as possible. I use surgical tubing to clamp it. Once dry, I address any bedding issue that might exist, using epoxy bedding compound to make sure there’s full contact on the recoil surfaces—very Important to prevent further cracking. It’s also a good time to take a look to see if the tang area is stable. More often than not, at least out here in the dry southwest, the wood has shrunk and the tang screws no longer can be tightened properly without changing the trigger geometry, so that gets addressed as well.


John Farner
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Read all of the excellent advice on the 'Stock Repair, Yikes' post on this forum. Your situation appears to be like the Lefever project gun. Wealth of information and knowledge.

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Gary N Offline OP
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I'll try to get some pictures up soon if I get to work on it tonight but I guess my question is with the cracks being internal, thus where the boxlock itself sits, would I not need to glue it and have it set with the gun back together... or glue it, clamp it, and hope for the best that everything fits back without becoming too tight.

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If there is no displacement now, then no clamping is needed or likely to matter.

From the sounds of it, cyanoacrylate is your huckleberry for this. Then, perhaps bedding the entire action while you are at it. I've done this many a time with never a failure.


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Gary N Offline OP
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Originally Posted By: BrentD
If there is no displacement now, then no clamping is needed or likely to matter.

From the sounds of it, cyanoacrylate is your huckleberry for this. Then, perhaps bedding the entire action while you are at it. I've done this many a time with never a failure.


Sorry I an very new to this can you clarify the if there is no displacement part and thus how cyanoacrylate would be used for this fix exactly? I mean am I just filling the void with it and not trying to bring the crack together?

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Gary if the crack is separated, then you would want to try to bring it together with some sort of clamping. And, CA may not be the optimal for that (or it might - depends). If it is a crack that has come back together but you want the two pieces permanently mated, then CA will bleed into the crack better than any other glue and it will form a perfectly permanent and waterproof bond.

Pics help. Good ones anyway.


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=>/

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Gary N Offline OP
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https://ibb.co/n0rWDmL
https://ibb.co/HCyQbvR
https://ibb.co/47DLG6b

Not the best pictures but this is what I'm working with

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SKB Offline
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You will want to soak that one good, use a good epoxy and if you can a re-enforcement across the crack.


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