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Forums10
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Most Online9,918 Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92 |
I know this has been on here before, as I had saved it once. Computer melt down lost this particular post. Does anyone still have it saved, or can someone go through the process again, including preferred glue? This is a home remedy on a practice piece.
Possibly it could be saved on the FAQ section.
Thanks.
Pat
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
Cyanoacrylate gel has been known (to me) to work. It has been known (to others) not to. Low temp solder and flux paste probably better; maybe Swif 95. Either way you need some sort of steel round bar for a caul or negative of the shim you're trying to hold in there (Mike Orlen uses round transfer punches which come in sets and provide a selection of diameters to suit). Need a C or bar clamp. Need a heat source if you solder. Need everything clean and degreased whatever you do. I don't think a little "tooth" accomplished with sandpaper on the back side of the shim hurts. Maybe you need water in the barrels or a wet rag on the bottom rib if you solder it. Need to make sure you're not putting more shim in there than you need.
jack
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,604 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,604 Likes: 12 |
I believe Mike Orlen originally posted this picture. 
Mike
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92 |
Thanks for the advise and the picture. I seem to recall some consensus on using Lock-tite Red, or something to that effect. Does anyone use that adhesive?
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
If you can do it with thread locker, you could do it with flour paste. I don't remember that particular bit of insanity. Apparently even cyanoacrylate is a bit of a long shot as the only place it can get moisture for curing is from your hot breath.
jack
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,465 Likes: 89
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 15,465 Likes: 89 |
I wouldn't do it with any of the above even to a junk gun. Get it fixed by a professional the right way....or sell it to some Cowboy Action shooter. L.F.
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
". . . home remedy on practise piece." Devil loves a coward; go right ahead and learn how to do it by doing it. Get some steel shim stock and think about soldering it.
jack
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 92 |
I might well be mistaken on the "Locktite", but I am quite sure that some had used an industrial strength glue with Red in the name and possibly some number behind it. I can't be dreaming this. There must be someone out there who remembers this.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,604 Likes: 12
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,604 Likes: 12 |
For all of the naysayers.
How about this one? Try some scotch tape.
Clean the hook and make sure there is no oil. Apply, one, or two layers. Rarely will it take more than that. Then a small spot of grease on the tape.
This is good for a couple of rounds of skeet or a round of sporting clays.
This is also a good way to determine how thick the metal shim you will use for a permanent repair needs to be.
Mike
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Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 223
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 223 |
Tin / aluminium foil also works for a short period of time...
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