I use a side cutter pliers with any bevel removed to get the edge down close to the base and rib. Then with a piece of thin leather or card under the pliers to protect the rib, gently lever it up and out as you grab the bead at the junction of it's underside and the rib. The tiny mid rib beads are better left in place as they are apt to break as come out and as Amigo Will says to play it safe, leave the beads in place if they're subborn and carefully rust blue. Other than some slight discoloration from the chemicle and carding, it won't harm it. You can brighten it back up again when done with a careful touchup twist of some clean 0000 steel wool, then buff a little with some simichrome or the like to bring back a glow to it. I place a piece of masking tape over the bead with a small slot in it for the bead to poke out through when cleaning it up after blueing. It avoids any slips or mars to the new blueing at the end of the job. Avoid any heavy handed carding when going over the beads. Stay away from the bead(s) with the torch if you're heating the barrels up by that method to apply a hot rust solution for obvious reasons!
