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what is aquafortis? is this a stain and where or how do you get it? thanks bugsy
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Nitric acid (HNO3). In dilute form it will stain (oxidize) many organics, including your skin to brown. In full or strong concentration it is an extremely vigorous, oxidizing acid.
Hazmat laws, fees and liability concerns make it hard to get stuff like this. Bryant Labs in Berkeley CA sold this and worse stuff, delivered -- for very high $ -- but only to "legitimate businesses." My consulting practice qualified (I the purchases up in person and just gave them a card.)
If you know anyone in a plating firm, chem lab, university lab, etc. --they might help you. I wouldn't be surprised if you can order more dilute forms, that will probably do what you need done. Try Google.
Fred
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Nitric acid that has had lots of light steel or iron dissolved in it. The old-timers way was to dissolve nails in it till it would not take anymore.
Track of the Wolf has it ready to go they are online. IT makes a great Stain for curly maple but you will have to heat the wood after treatment and then neutralize unless you want it to turn black over the years. I would keep it away from walnut as it will become BLACK and show no figure.
If you are wanting to brown steel pass on it and get Laurel Mnt brown as it will be simpler to use and more controllable.
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Sidelock
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Years ago I thought I wanted to rust blue barrels, this was the best concotion to use according to Howe. WARNING don't mix the nitric acid and nails inside!!! Fortunatly I did it outside, the cloud of orange smoke must have extended 500 feet straight up. After the smoke disapeared and the disaster forces failed to arrive, I decided there were pleasanter ways to kill myself Jim
I learn something every day, and a lot of times it's that what I learned the day before was wrong
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If you can get ahold of nitric acid, take a few ounces and start dropping wads of steel wool into it, letting the wool disolve completely before adding the next wad. When you reach the point that another wad produces no visible reaction with the acid, you've got aquafortis that some people (not me) can apply to a stock without gloves. I believe it's mainly applicable to curly maple, brings out the stripes quite well. Be sure to boil the steel wool in water and dry thoroughly first. It should remove any soap or rust preventative that's on the fibers.
Pete
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Sidelock
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Or you can buy a small quantity of ferric nitrate crystals and dissolve in water. Dampen the wood with this solution, heat it to get the colors to turn to red/brown, neutralize and finish.
Also you can use white vinegar to dissolve iron (no alloys please) like old barb wire or old nails. This takes awhile (like a couple months) until no more iron will dissolve and the whole concoction looks like an orange gunky mess. Then use it same as aqua fortis with iron dissolved in it. Again not for walnut unless you want a black stock. This is the sort of stain procedure that the muzzle loading boys use on Curly Sugar Maple and Red Maple to bring out the curl. If you get other metals like chromium dissolved along with the iron the colors can be perfectly hideous (often green) so test your solution on a piece of scrap from the stock first. (Give it several months to stabilize before using it on your gunstock.)
Better solution is to use alcohol based stains which can be mixed to get whatever color you like and it is easier to overcoat and blend to your taste.
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This stock is stained with aquafortis. It's darker and more brown that some but each peice of maple reacts a bit different. AF often has a red hue to it. Cody
Tact is for those not clever enough to be sarcastic
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Sidelock
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Absolutely beautiful piece of work Cody !! Ken
Ken Hurst 910-221-5288
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Interesting that the ancient term for nitric acid is used interchangably for a ferric nitrate solution.
Ferric nitrate should be much easier to obtain than nitric acid (altho it's not innocuous -- similar in that way to ferric chloride, that dissolves Cu off printed circuit boards).
I too would opt for more modern dyes, unless total authenticity were a major goal. One reason is the potential corrosive action of residual "dye" (I'm thinking of Brownings and salt wood, for example).
Fred
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I appreciate the kind comment Ken. I build it three years ago.
Thanks Cody
Tact is for those not clever enough to be sarcastic
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