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Joined: Jan 2002
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Sidelock
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Originally Posted By: binko
Has anyone ever tried "stippling" the pin or the hook?

binko

Lots of amateur gunsmiths have temporarily tightened loose guns by peening or mauling the hook or bending the bottom of the hook up toward the barrels with a hammer. This is a poor and unprofessional way to do it.
Sometimes the hinge pin can be turned around.
On Parkers the "pin" is actually a roll, held in place by the screw. Oversize "rolls" may be available.
Found this: http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=13910

Last edited by Jim Legg; 09/26/08 04:57 PM.

> Jim Legg <

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Only part of the pin surface gets any wear. Take the pin out and rotate it over to an unworn surface. Do not punch pin the hook!
Steve

Last edited by Rockdoc; 09/26/08 04:41 PM.

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Originally Posted By: binko
Has anyone ever tried "stippling" the pin or the hook?

binko


That's a good way to get your arm broke. :-)

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Interesting-never had that problem with my older Trojan 12 No. 2 frame 30" barreled Parker, or the later VH 12 ga., 1 and 1/2 frame also 30" barrels I am shooting now- Wonder if the shim stock you get with some of the scopes and mounts might work as a "field fix" until you can get it to Mr. DelGrego-On the doll's head question, my Trojan had the small doll's head extension, a hunting pal has a Remington mfg. 20 Trojan Grade and it has a flat breech, like the M21 Winchesters. RWTF


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FedEx or USPS to a qualified gunsmith is the quickest way to a good job

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I realize a technicality of terminology, BUT, the Trojan did not have a Doll's Head, at least none I ever saw. Early ones had a plain rib extension, which did nothing. To qualify as a "Doll's Head" it has to have an enlarged end, which locks into a mortise in the frame top. If properly fitted it helps the hinge pin absorb axial thrust. Higher grade Parkers had a sq shouldered Doll's Head, for which I understand they paid Lefever a royalty. Uncle Dan had patented the sq shoulder in 1878, US patent # 205193.


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Grease and piece of brass shim stock (easy to cut with scissors) lasts quite a while pre-bent and placed on the pin. I tightened one NID with .002" steel shim glued and clamped in the hook with cyanoacrylate. Loctite BlackMax is said to work pretty well. I had something like Loctite 280 and it also held fine. The transfer punches Jim refers to are inexpensive from Harbour Freight and give you diameters by 1/64 increments so you're bound to find one nearly correct diameter to conform the whole area of the shim to the hook whether you glue or solder.

jack

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Nothing worse than getting an old beauty, taking a look and someone has been inside hammering and pounding like there is no tomorrow. I can see wanting to do things for yourself, but to get in and start doing damage to a gun that is in your charge is evil absolute! IMHO

Tim

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Ok, Ok, I put away the center punch, is everybody happy now :), it was just a question...at least I asked 1st., although it was an accepted method of tightening bearing races in the end-bells of some electric motors, back when. Now, how difficult is it to get the pivot pin screw on this old 1890 grade 2, G model loose, without buggering the slot?

thanks for all the replies,
binko


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are you sure where the gun has worn? On parkers it is often not the hook, but the locking bolt that can wear.
Steve


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