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Ed1 --- you are right, I serious doubt anyone with any knowledge on this forum would buy or subject their firearm to your services. In the event I'm in error, those that would use Ed1's services please clearly state so in reply to this post --- come on guys, don't be shy or ashamed. I hardly think Ed Lander should have to be concerned about loosing any of this bbs's members as clients in as much as they are gentlemen of refined taste & recognize good work.



Ken Hurst
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Originally Posted By: Chuck H
Ed,
If you want to paint guns pink and set fire to them, far be it from me to stop you, or the fools that buy them. You've been given sound information. If you chose to ignore it, that's your choice to make. It is also the choice/freedom of members of this bbs to express their opinions on those guns and their seller and or the person that re-colored them.

Personally, I'm in favor of petitioning to not allow your re-colored guns to be advertised here now that you've been given the information as to why what has been done to these guns is a bad thing.


could not have said it better Chuck,anyone who can look at that butchers work and call it anything but crap needs his head examined.
ED1 ,as a dealer is not allowed to advertise in the for sale section .

Last edited by Dave K; 01/11/09 05:28 PM.

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Here is the above mentioned method for "Restoring" Perazzis taken from an Ithaca Service Manual;

To Repair or Restore Color Case
1; This is a serious problem on guns that have been used extensively.
Equipment Required:
a. Cold blue (we use 44-40)
b. “Q” tips (cotton swabs on a stick)
c. torch or other heat source
d. Paint remover (we use “Kwick”)
e. Fine steel wool
2; Procedure:
(1) Remove everything from the receiver.
(2) Remove lacquer from the receiver using “Kwick” or other liquid paint remover
(3) Wash receiver in a good solvent or boil with detergent.
(4) Using your heat source, heat the receiver to a point where liquid cold blue will dry almost instantly, (about 160°F)
(5) Using a “Q” tip, draw squiggly lines or whatever is necessary to match existing color hardening.
Note* If you have polished the receiver to bare metal, space your lines about ¼” apart on the first pass, then fill in on a 2nd pass.
(6) Using fine steel wool dipped in oil, remove the oxidation from the receiver. Be careful not to remove the color.
(7) Wash in good solvent. Do not touch before applying lacquer.
(8) Spray with acrylic plastic from “Koloid”
(9) Reassemble gun & return to a satisfied customer.

Note** This procedure does not affect the case hardening. It only restores the color. I have used this procedure with Oxpho Blue, which seemed to work as well as the 44-40. The Perazzi was I believe built of an alloy steel, not suitable to case hardening & was simply given a false color from the factory. The old doubles are built of a plain carbon steel, mostly on the order of a 1020 steel, which are suitble for the bone charcoal process. It must always be borne in mind though, any time you put a piece of steel in a furnace & raise it's temperature above it's critical temperature there is a possibility of warpage or cracking. It can be colored by heating to just under the critical temp in a carbon rich atmosphere, BUT, then all the hardness put in by the factory has been tempered out. Personally the guns which I have habitually carried afield were those having little to no case colors remaining. I carry them with pride, use them as they are & have no plans of subjecting them to either process.
The Ithaca process, or equivelent, is no more damaging to the metaluragy than bluing. It can always be simply polished off. It would of course be foolish to pay extra for a gun so done & then polish it off.
There is a process which has been used, in which a concentrated flame from a small accetylene tip heats a small area to temper color the metal in spots. In My Opinion this should be a "Crime". These old double frames were of course given a bone charcoal "Color Case-Hardening" process from the factory, they were not just "Colored". This last mentioned process gives a "Variegated" temper to the case. The hardness of the case does not fade away with the color, but remains intact. This case should not be disturbed unless a total re-heat treat is going to be done. The part should then be annealed, packed in a bone charcoal mixture & heated above it's critical temp to impart the proper hard case upon quenching. If all goes succesful you have an as new appearing frame with the proper case hardness applied. Regardless of what anyone may tell you though, there is some risk involved in puttin'er in the furnace.


Miller/TN
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ED1 Even if your colors are safe???? The colors are not the correct color's. I have seen to many of your so called restoration's on gunbroker etc. and none of your torch colors came even close to looking like original. Terry Deem

Last edited by Ithaca16; 01/11/09 05:54 PM.
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this is getting redundant and hence has become boring....

Last edited by ed1; 01/11/09 06:15 PM.

keep it simple and keep it safe...
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Hmmmmm.......I'm wondering...could ed1 really be an imposter-troll just stirring our collective pot?... If so, this may be a therapeutic 'cleansing' for the participants and a educational experience for the observers.....Any proof that we have the REAL Ed Lander here?.......

Last edited by Doug Waterman; 01/11/09 06:55 PM.
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Ed1: Do you and Ed Lander have liability insurance against personal injury?
After reviewing the comments posted here, I am more concerned with personal safety than the visual impact.

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Every industry has a "chop shop" or two...Ed1 is the gun dealers equivalent........you know, the "Earl Schieb gun shop, any gun, any color for twenty nine ninety five.....in by 9 out by 5".......so be it....

Hopefully some people reading here will steer clear of his junk wherever it is advertised and that is satisfaction enough.....to each his own....


Doug



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ZZZZZZZZZZZ


keep it simple and keep it safe...
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You know what Ed1 ---- if this is boringg you , why do you hang around ? As you stated, there will be no resolution of this matter --- with the exception of further assuring the group that your services are somthing they want nothing to do with. Further, your continued presence only gives us a hoot at your expense or do you enjoy self debasement ? At any rate, please remove your presence from this august group of men --- I assure you that your absence won't be noticed.



Ken Hurst
910-221-5288
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