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#130473 01/13/09 04:39 PM
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Gentlemen, how have you dealt with the overly short standard stock LOP that comes with your pre WWII Fox? Most Foxes come with a LOP of 13"-14" and most of us 6' or taller need a LOP of 14 1/2" - 15 1/2". Can you add a pad of an 1 1/2" to the butt without it being wobbly or looking stupid?

Jim

FairChase #130477 01/13/09 04:50 PM
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Well, you can add the pad without it being wobbly, but whether or not it looks stupid is kind of up to personal taste...Geo

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adding a pad may change the balance of the gun such that it will no longer shoot where you think it should. scabbing on wood is a better idea. email me privately for a picture of a professional wood extension job.


keep it simple and keep it safe...
ed good #130479 01/13/09 05:28 PM
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FairChase, I'm going to post a picture of a properly done wood extension. This extension was done in England but there are some workmen in this country that are equally capable, Dennis Earl Smith comes to mind. I'm sure there are others that do fine work also. I do not do this type of work and have no pig in this party.

A recoil pad can also be added without changing the balance of the gun by removing wood from the butt of the stock if needed.


Last edited by Doug Mann; 01/13/09 05:29 PM.

Doug Mann
Doug Mann #130483 01/13/09 05:48 PM
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There are some people that can do wood extensions and I applaud them. I bought this Specialty Grade 12 ga., everything about it was great, nice crisp engraving, Hunter One-Trigger, ejectors, nice barrels, but the lop was 12 3/4" to the end of wood. Someone cut it and added a Pachmyer De-excelorator pad that was 1 1/2" long and just that alone weighed close to half a pound.
I added a piece of walnut that was not grain orientated and tried to blend the colors and fauxed some grain. I like it better than the recoil pad, and there are only two screws holding it on if I get some better grained walnut in the future.



David


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No one will believe this but the black rubber donuts from Brownell actually look pretty good when properly faired to the stock contours and a normal 1/2 to 3/4" pad added. If you're going to add a wood extension, just do it; I'm not particularly impressed by the invisible joints produced by fauxing, inking, glazing, micro-inlays, etc.

jack

Doug Mann #130545 01/13/09 10:15 PM
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Doug that is stunning work. Also, by having a specular highlight (glare) on the stock, it really allows you to appreciate how seamless the joined extension is.

RPnKC #130572 01/14/09 02:57 AM
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JDW & all,
If a little more time and forethought had been taken with your wood extension you can now see how much better it could have been.
If that extension had been fitted 180 degrees the grain would have been a much better match.A little colour and a bit more care blending and it would have been, how do you guys say 'durn perty'

Salopian #130580 01/14/09 06:28 AM
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You can also cover an extension and pad with leather. If you take your time you can get very good results even with a inch and a half pad. Getting the leather around the toe is the tough part with that much leather to bring to the base but it can be done. Using the right leather dye makes a lot of difference.

Regards, Gordon


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salopian,
Unfortunately the length of the extension wood was very close to the finished stock and the grain orientation wasn't long enough in the toe to do this and that is why it is "upside down".
When you have grain that is running like this one, you almost have to put the other piece on a 45 degree angle to match the stock grain.
I'll live with this for awhile, I just didn't like the looks of that recoil pad. I'm not fond of recoil pads to begin with.

The leather is a nice idea, but then you have to form the extension smaller to allow the leather to be flush with the stock. And I agree the toe would be hard to do. The leather would almost have to be wet (damp) to let it shrink to fit tight.


David


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