Found it!

"I bend a thru-bolt gun just like any other gun but when I'm done, I take the stock off and gently bend the thru-bolt so that it lines up with the hole in the newly bent stock. I suspect that o/wise the bolt acts as a spring trying to move the stock back to where it was.
My jig is just like Mike's (it's based upon his old jig). However, I don't know what Mike's process is. Mine is that the oil never touches any wood or metal. I wrap the wrist in Saran Wrap for 3 or 4 wraps, then wrap the spot where I want the bend to occur with a shop rag and tie it down.
I then cover everything with alum. foil to prevent the lights from blistering the finish. Nothing is exposed except the shop rag. I turn on the lights and start eye-dropping the oil onto the rag, soaking it thoroughly.
My process usually takes about 30 min., once I turn on the lights. My lights are closer to the wrist than Mike's, though, if his are 11" away. I have a tape measure stapled to the back of the jig, and I tape a pencil or similar to the butt, so that I have a "cold" measurement starting point and I can see exactly how much I have bent the stock at any time. After cool down, I can compare pointer indications to see how much I moved the stock, and thereby know whether I need to heat it back up and bend again. I measure up from the floor of the jig to check for drop change.
The TRICK is to accomplish all this w/o messing up the finish, damaging the gun when you clamp it down, messing up the stock/action joint or changing the stock/trigger (sear) interface. I c-clamp the stock fork to the action (with leather buffers) before I put the gun in the jig. You might have to do a little carving to eliminate a stock/sear contact point afterwards, if you moved the fork at all. You might also have to bend a long trigger-guard tang to make it easy to get the stock on and off.
I'd do a lot of cheap guns to start out with, if I were you.
HTH!
Cush


JC

"...it is always advisable to perceive clearly our ignorance."ť Charles Darwin