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Don Moody #139028 03/05/09 09:14 PM
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SDH, I think those pix pretty well answer any "What do I do with my clapped-out Ruger #3?" questions!

The .30-40 IS pretty similar to a .308, especially when you handload it carefully for a first class 28" barrel on a REALLY strong action with modern powders and bullets. Actually it can be pretty similar to anything from a .32WCF to a factory-loaded .30-06! And as accurate as a .308, meaning as accurate as a rifle can be.

Mike Armstrong #139033 03/05/09 09:58 PM
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I've often thought it would be a very fine rifle with few action mods., a great barrel and first class stocking. I'm just dumb lucky to have the sidelever.

The .30-40 has done very well for me, and for Ed Webber, in N. Am. and Africa.I don't even load it nearly as hot as I could, just very accurate loads at about 2400 fps. and 180 Noslers.

Vall #139034 03/05/09 10:26 PM
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Mr. Moody,

According to R.L. Wilson, the #3's were in later production in the same serial number range as #1's. I believe these to be the start of year numbers:

1973 130-50000
1974 130-51170
1975 130-54210
1976 130-55139
1977 130-60511
1978 130-65671
1979 130-70344

1980 on mixed with #1 numbers, which were:

1980 132-01360
1981 132-07159
1982 132-25986
1983 132-34077
1984 132-39043
1985 132-54434
1986 132-73032

1878 #139043 03/05/09 11:52 PM
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Well, I made it back to the shop after work and was planning on buying the gun as soon as I walked through the door but I was too late the gun had sold that morning. Before I could get depressed he said hold on and went to the back. He came out with another #3 chambered in 22 Hornet. This one is all original and in great shape. I asked how much and he said this one is in better shape $400 even. I didn't dicker and pulled out the cash. So I wont have a .30-40 to play with. I will just have to wait until the Krag is back together. Best-JB

J.B. #139046 03/06/09 12:00 AM
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SDH, That is a great looking gun I dont have any of your rifle books yet just one that pertains to doubles. I will have to remedy that very soon.

If anyone has pics they would like me to post for them just drop me a line my email is in my profile.

Thank you all for the advice I will keep you updated on the progress. Best-JB

J.B. #139048 03/06/09 12:08 AM
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If the Hornet won't shoot, try a K chamber before you pull the barrel or reline it. Can be a miracle cure for Hornet snarkiness.

I'd say a $400 nice Hornet is a decent consolation prize!

Another thing about #3s is that even if you have to kindling the wierd buttstock, the forend has enough meat on it to take just about any kind of shape, assuming the wood isn't too butuglee. (I put an ebony tip on one of mine to draw the eye away from the Plain Jane rest of it).

Mike Armstrong #139051 03/06/09 12:25 AM
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Another shot of the beautiful sidelever (hope you dont mind SDH)



Since I wont be getting the sidelever treatment I think one like this would be fine.



J.B. #139053 03/06/09 12:46 AM
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Thank you, 1878.

It appears that my No. 3 is a 1974 model.


Ole Cowboy
J.B. #139054 03/06/09 01:25 AM
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I also like number threes. Here are a couple I own. Both have Shilen barrels and Coentrol scope mounts. I keep threatening to upgrade the wood but as you can see they are still much the same as when they left the factory.



The remodelled Springfield is the best and most suitable all 'round rifle. - Seymour Griffin wink

Idared #139132 03/06/09 03:05 PM
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Four hundred bucks for a stock #3 is great! With apologies to MA, before rechambering, I'd remove the forend band, and then the forend in any attempt for accuracy, just to see. Red just rasped the wood away. My Hornet shot great with the forend rebedded.

The sidelever was also made in 1974, thanks 1878!

I can see I've posted hero shots before, who built the .405, J.B.? Engraving?

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