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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 364
Sidelock
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Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 364
Well here's my two cents. Just to clear up one piece of misinformation, not all pins are case hardened. In guns with removable end caps where I have actually removed the pins none of them were case hardened, or at least didn't appear to be. It was also impossible to tell if they were worn as I didn't know the original diameter, they showed wear but was that from the maker sticking it in a lathe for a little polishing??At any rate if you don't remove the pin you'll just be guessing at it's condition. Obviously, guns can be tightened in a variety of ways, how you do it depends on what day it is, or how much time and money you want to spend, or maybe even your skill level,whatever. Nevertheless, the best possible condition is when the pin is perfectly round and polished and engages the hook all across it's width and over it's entire contact area. If the hook and pin are polished mirror bright, in perfect contact and the gun closes tight as a bank vault, why then you've got a gun that will give the longest use. I don't know Mr. Eversull except for his great reputation and having spoken to him by phone, but unless he can walk on water and also turn it into wine he cannot achieve what I've just described without removing the damn pin. I've got no problem with shimming a hook, welding it, using scotch tape or chewing gum. All are better than shooting a loose gun. But if you want the best it's best to know what's best.

Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954
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Sidelock
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,954
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The first time a shotgun is cycled every part invloved is, in theory, worn. The amount of wear might be only an "atom or two," but it is there. That said, we always come back to the questions of how weel to make any repair. We must always consider sensitivity to the aesthetics of the original gun, cost, need for future durability wishes of the owner, etc. But then, we have said all that. The best repair is the one that fufills the most wishes at the highest level for the least cost.

The mechanically best repair would be one where:
- The hinge pin has a round section of hard metal,
- The hook has a round section of hard metal,
- Hook and pin have concentric axis,
- Surfaces have sufficient clearance for a lube film,
- Surface finish is conducive to lube retention.

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 232
Sidelock
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Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 232
I have an 1876 Remington Whitmore with 2 sets of barrels. The 12 gauge bbls are tight on the face. The 10 gauge bbls are a little loose. A .001" shim tightens the 10s up quite nicely. Since the 12s are tight it would appear most of the problem is with the hooks on the 10s and very little problem with the pin.

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