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Forums10
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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 329 Likes: 14
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 329 Likes: 14 |
JDW yes your right but the rust blue mixes are usually a lot stronger than the browns I was just experimenting to see how the damascus would react, I love the black and white finish you guys have and I am trying to find a simple way of doing it!!
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,250 Likes: 164
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,250 Likes: 164 |
Have you checked this out BB http://docs.google.com/Doc?id=dfg2hmx7_194gwgwmqdhI'm afraid there is no simple way, but I'd like to cut a couple corners with the express blue.
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,774 Likes: 1 |
I has found one recipe 'logwood for barrels' in one book from 1926.
Its for fluid barrels, not damascus.
First of all traditional rust bluing 10-12 times using Fe2SO4 * 7H2O (ferrous sulphate, green crystals) and FeCl2 (iron chloride 1 1/2) solution. The final color dark chocolate with blue nuance.
Then 1,8 liter of spring water, 38.4 grams of logwood extract, 0.2 grams ferrous sulphate. Heat solution till boiling and put barrels in solution for 10 minutes.
The final color dark blue.
Geno.
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,859 Likes: 121
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,859 Likes: 121 |
barrel browner, I tried sending you an email, would not go through to that address, then tried sending a PM, that didn't work either. If you want to send me your email address, mine is jdavidw1@comcast.net
Thanks Geno, I thougt is was only for non Damascus barrels. Dr. Gaddy mentioned about using it, stated amount and also used glass as an indicator for correct mixture.
Last edited by JDW; 10/18/09 03:25 PM.
David
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,343 Likes: 101
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,343 Likes: 101 |
Forget about trying a express blue for finishing composite barrels. I have done lots of experimening and it doesn't work. They always come out blotchy and inconsistent.
Tradional rust bluing is the only(jmho)method to finishing composite barrels.
Tom Flanigan's method is very accurate. Only a few points i wouldn't agree with, but who knows i could be wrong too.
Also i wouldn't waist my time with logwood powder. Get the chips/shaving from Aurora Silk.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,820 Likes: 490
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,820 Likes: 490 |
Travis: I'd be most happy to make an addendum to Tom's tutorial if you have some pointers that might help someone. You're doing great work also.
revdoc2@cox.net
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,250 Likes: 164
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,250 Likes: 164 |
I guess my question has been answered. Using logwood for fluid steel barrrels makes complete sense.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,343 Likes: 101
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,343 Likes: 101 |
Drew.......thanks!
However, no addendum is needed to Tom's tutorial. He does outstanding work and has freely given advice on composite refinishing.
What i like to do is, etch after each rusting. This keeps everything consistent and neutral. I think of it as builing one layer at a time. I don't boil in logwood until i get the black i'm seeking.
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Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 329 Likes: 14
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 329 Likes: 14 |
jdw my email is stevensandjohnson@talktalk.net
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