doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com How Do I Learn to "Buy Smart"?

Chapter 14 of McIntosh's book "Shotguns and Shooting" is titled Buying Smart. As someone seeking a couple of solid shotguns to serve as the cornerstones of two custom projects, I've read and reread this short chapter with great interest.

Specifically, I'm looking to buy a Fox 16 gauge and Model 12 16 gauge. I would prefer to purchase these guns in-person; however, 3-day inspection periods make on-line purchases less of a crap shoot. That being said, and McIntosh's chapter notwithstanding, I don't feel properly prepared to make informed purchases. As a newbie to these types of pursuits, I feel like the word SUCKER is tattoed on my forehead. What do you look for when buying a used long gun? Do you ask a gunsmith to participate in your inspection? I've read on this board where a shooter describes his used gun as being "tight as a tick" - what does that mean?

If 54 fricking years old and I feel like I'm asking someone to explain where babies come from! Sorry for being such a dolt; however, I'm clearly intimidated by my lack of experience.

The more opinions, suggestions and recommendations the better.

Thanks;

An old friend in Connecticut once told me that "if you don't know your gun, know your dealer" I have always done this and never been disappointed.

Jeff,
You're smart to ask questions. Here's my $.02. Barrels are the most important. The rib should be solid, tubes un-cut and un-altered in anyway with no significant dents. You can support the barrels by the hook on your finger then tap up and down each barrel with a screwdriver handle. The barrels should "ring" similar to a bell. If they buzz/rattle or thud the rib could be loose or it could be the extractor rattling (not a problem). Now, a ring doesn't mean that the rib is perfect but it is a good indication. Next the gun should function correctly. If it is tight (remove the forend and shake the gun feeling for play) that is preferred. However, given the work that's going to be done a "little" play can be addressed. If you're going to try to use the existing stock no visible cracks, chips, severe dents would be best. Not to down play internal cracks but these can be addressed without affecting the external aesthetics.

Good luck and keep asking questions.
Phil

Thanks for the comments Phil.

Is shaking the gun with the forend removed the way to determine if it is "off face"? Should I hold the the gun by the barrels or or butt stock to shake it?

Thanks;

Jeff,
I hold the stock and the receiver and shake the gun side to side and up and down. If it is loose it will almost certainly be off face. You can use feeler gauges between the breech and the barrels to measure how much of face.
Phil

P.S. A couple of good books to read: Vintage Guns for the Modern Shot by Diggory Hadoke and Double Guns and Custom Gunsmithing by Steve Dodd Hughes. Both are in print and readily available.

This might help Jeff
http://www.lcsmith.org/faq/buying.html

"The best preparation prior to the purchase of a vintage L.C. Smith is to beg, bribe, or pay an experienced LC collector to accompany you. This may prevent your making a many hundreds or thousands of dollars mistake. And most of us enjoy spending some other fella's money!"

You are absolutely right about this. But I have still yet to find even the best ones who won't squeak the truth ju-u-u-u-u-st a little bit when it comes to making a buck.

The best way to do it is to start hanging around your local gun clubs and start asking questions. Usually there will be someone there to help you and show you up close what guns should be like.

Avoid the ticks....they'll suck you dry.



I learned allot about SxS's from guys at my gun club. I've been pretty lucky (thanks to their help) in most of my purchases.

Only way to get over that "intimidation" is to get your feet wet a couple of times. You'll not get too far over your head on the lower grade Foxes...it's when you step up in Grades that you can quickly get burned.

You have the advantage in buying a gun for a project in you do not need to be too concerned with the amount of finish a gun has remaining. Most sellers will rightly expect top dollar for a high condition gun with most of its original finish remaining. A real nice condition Fox Sterlingworth 16 may have a asking price north of 2K while a gun that is in solid mechanical condition with little remaining finish will struggle to make 1K.

Look for a gun with good barrels and one that is on face. Do not buy one with lots of dents and dings in the metal, heavy pitting either inside the barrels or on the surface. Honest wear is fine and should be expected. Anything can be fixed but do not buy a money pit if you can avoid it. Have a good gunsmith look over your gun if possible when you get your choices down to one or two candidates.

If you post pictures of you guns here many can point out most of the potential flaws. Do not rush the purchase. There are thousands of Sterlingworths and more of them are well used than pristine. Which means your potential pool of guns to use is much larger than some one who just wants a high condition gun for a collection or as a nice shooter.

In your travels, while looking for your gun, do not pass on a few extras if you come across them. If you come across a set of barrels for a 16 or 20, that are in decent shape, buy them. Both the 16 and 20 are on the same frame. Having a second set of barrels can make a gun much more versatile. Fitting a set of barrels is not that hard to do. For ends are easier to find than barrels.

Search the net. You can look at more guns in a few hours on the internet than you will see in years in person. Plus gun found on the net are easy to link to here for a quick second opinion.