The removal method described will work with loose inletting, but risks splintering. A better way is to cock the locks, remove the lock screw entirely, then gently but smartly tap tap on the action knuckle with a CLEAN light soft faced mallet or piece of soft wood while holding the action and stock of the disassembled gun loosely in the hand. Be sure to cover both locks so as to prevent anything from falling. To reinstall the cocked locks, depress the appropriate cocking lever on the front of the knuckle as you carefully place the lock in its recess by tucking the tab of the lock plate on the front into its recess on the action bar and gently lowering the rear in to place. You should not have any trigger interference. If you do, you may have an unsafe condition that should be checked. Do not move the safety from where it was when you started until you're finished. Also it's a good idea to tap the locks home uniformly (carefully) in the inletting if it is snug, which it should be. Don't rely on the screw to do it all as it is applying pressure in one spot only.
This business about never removing the locks for periodic cleaning and lubrication is silly. That is why they are detachable, and one of the advantages of the sidelock system. That does not mean removing them frequently just for a look, but annually for maintenance or whenever the gun has gotten wet. If you could see the crap and rust and stains and congealed oil residue inside the guns of those who steadfastly refuse to do this you would see what I mean. Often these guns are the same ones that have "unreliable" single triggers, for the same reason.
By the way, a dab of paste wax rubbed around the edges of the lockplates before replacement will assure that congealed oil, stock finish or not, does not cause them to stick tight and endanger the wood.
