Take one gun and re-case color it repeatedly and see if any distortion or brittleness in the receiver results.
When you run this test don't just "Re-Case Color" but ""RE-CASE (Color) HARDEN". There is a vast & distinct diference between the two. Re-Case "Coloring" will have no affect on the metallurgy except to draw out most of the hardness of the case & leave it in a softened condition.
It is of course quite true the core of a piece of carburized low carbon steel will not become brittle upon quenching. It is also equally true the "Case" itself can & sometimes will if left totally "UnTempered" develop hairline surface cracks. Some steels are more susceptical to this than others. A tempering in the range of 300°F ±25°F will ususally provide adequate protection against this with little detrement to the hardness.
I have personally witnessed this surface checking on a piece of 1018/1020 steel which was "Professionally" case-hardened (not for color),then finish ground into a paralell bar to within ±.0002" dimensions. (Fortunately it wasn't mine).
It is also noted that "Chemical Coloring" (Paint on) is done on warm metal, NOT HOT which does no damage at all to any steel. This method has been described here on several ocasions & was taken from an Ithaca Service Manual for use on Perazzi Receivers, which were I believe an alloy steel & only artificially "Colored" originally.
Some I think are totally confusing this process with "Torch Coloring" in which patches of the steel are heated till they form "Temper Colors". This should be a Crime punishable by hanging from a New Rope for 30 days.
My personal preference on an old gun with the case colors gone is to simply enjoy its character "AS_IS".