I've done LC Smiths....you are right about the end screw but I found a technique that works quite well. I use a tapered punch to get it lined up working from under the action, then hold it in place from the inside while I switch to the screw.
Rem switched to floating pins I think to prevent the action binding up. But not sure. It's also easier to replace a pin that the whole hammer.
Notice the Rem hammers are much narrower than the Fox's...that alone accounts for the wall thickness.
We have seen several pics of Fox's with cracked actions on this site...not surprising when you look at how much metal is left to counteract the bending stresses.
