doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Missing Solder?

I noticed when cleaning my Beretta S57E after shooting a couple of rounds of skeet that part of the (I assume)solder that fills the space between the barrells and the side rib of this over/under 12 gauge is now missing. [This is at the muzzle end when looking toward the reciever end] Therefore, I now have a few questions for this august board: First: How big of a deal is the missing material? Second: Assuming it is a big deal is this something that should be remedied by a gunsmith or is it something any reasonably "handy" guy can fix? Third: If it is something I can attempt, how would one go about it? Many thanks in advance!

Look at the other side...it should be a little steel wedge soldered in place, not straight solder.

If the former, a gunsmith can make you a new wedge and solder it in.

If the latter, you could probably fill the cavity with some lead solder yourself, but make sure it's not acid core and don't overdo the heat. Just enough to fill it proud and then file it flush. Use rosin for flux.

If the rib is loose (and I suspect it is), you will need to get a smith to fix it.

If it's just the solder, it's really cosmetic...if you hunt in the rain you probably don't want water getting in there so it's a good idea to plug it. Frankly, you could probably just fill it with silicone and leave it be.

I just looked at my 57E to see how much area we are talking about. There is no wedge and a very small triangle of soldier. In the past when having Briley chokes installed I have received the barrels back with a slight opening at the muzzle. The fix for me has been a #5 lead shot lightly tapped into the opening. As long as the rib is attached to the barrel with silver solder the lead solder at the end seems to be a filler. So far my crude fix looks good and is still there. A smith is always a better fix. I wouldn't do this myself to my S3 or 450EL but my 57E is another story.
Best,
Ron

I have fixed a couple of situations like this with epoxy. The brand that Paul H'arvey pushes, dries a gray color. I can't think of the name this early in the morning but I think it's something-weld. This is assuming the solder holding the ribs and barrels together is OK. I never got brave enough to try real solder, for fear of loosening something else.

Not much heat required, just use a big iron, melt it in and dress off with flat file.
bill

Jim, I think JB-weld is what you are talking about. It does dry to a gray color.

That's it.
Thank you,

Before using epoxy, consider Brownell's low melt point solder - melts low enough to not loosen other solder and to not harm bluing.

SWIF 95. Good stuff! I was amazed at the result (structural and cosmetic) using this stuff to batten down the after 4" of Superposed top rib.

Metalset, which is epoxy with alumininum powder might work if all you need is plugging a hole; also might too dark a grey when cured.

jack

rabbit, what is SWIF 95? I apologize for my ignorance on this but would really like to know, thus the question. BTW, the side ribs on the gun are sound. The space is very small and just occured. Many thanks to all for the information provided!