doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com reaming fixed chokes

'Search' doesn't reveal anything. Does anyone have any experience using, for example back boring reamers to open fixed chokes. I have a few guns that have been redone or refurbished so to speak that are begging to be opened. These are pretty much run of the mill guns (94 Rem, Flues). I'd like to shoot them occasionally but extra full and fuller than that are tough to take. And $45 per barrel is a little tough to swallow at the smith's.
Any alternative suggestions? I'm very open to and in need of advice.

well if you screw up one barrel the 45.00 will look real cheep.just wait a little longer to shoot.the shotgun class is coming up in trinidad co,take the class you will have a good time. mc

We all look at things differently, I know, but IMO $45 per barrel for choke reaming is by an expert is well worth it. mc hit the nail on the head about the "cost" of a botched reaming job. If you plan to do a considerable amount of it in the future, by all means invest in some training and equip yourself with the right reamers to do the job. If you just need a couple or three guns done, I'd farm the work out. I've had a few barrels' chokes opened, and have always been pleased with the results.

Guys, I appreciate your advice and admonitions and perhaps I should have been somewhat clearer. The advice I'm persuing is how to do the job, as oppossed to whether I should do it myself or not. I get a great deal of enjoyment out of fooling around with my aquisitions as well as using them. I am going to do it myself. The last time I did this I used an aluminum rod slotted to hold emery cloth and a drill. It took forever.What else you got for me? All appreciated.

Here in Mexico we do not have expert gunsmiths to open a choke, so I do all my work in this arena.

You need: 1)A good quality variable reamer (actually you need 2 to open a 12 ga from full to skeet because diameters) and a handle, 2)a digital caliper, 3)a telescopic gauge (last 2 items to take mesures from the choke you are working), 4) some pork lard (I think other lubricants also work, but I use that because an advise from an old machinist) and 5) some fine sandpaper (600 girt).

Procedure:
1) Adjust the reamer to cut 0.001-0.002" (never more than 0.002")
2) Apply a little pork lard in the blades of the reamer
3) slowly cut the choke by hand motion (the reamer autocenter so you do not cut uneven as many people say)
4) Clean steel particles cutted from the reamer.
5) Repeat until the desired choke is obtained.
6) With the sandpaper polish a little (or as much as you desire) to abtain a nice finish (normally the cut from the reamer is nice, so you do not need to sand a lot.

I opened some chokes, both single barrel and doubles, by this procedure with always very good results.

Best,

I was employed as a machinist for 35 years & in the course of those years reamed a lot of holes. I can assure you that an adjustable reamer will not center automatically in a hole "Unless" there is already a parallel section for it to follow.
Try the above advise on a taper choke & be prepared for it to hit anywhere but where you look. You can expect good results on a conical parallel choke, just be certain & discern which type you have prior to taking out any metal.

Miller hits the nail on the head exactly. I reamed a lot of holes myself so I can recognize an expert.
Nial

I go a lot lighter on the cut, .0005 feels good, I use lard oil for cutting fluid and a parallel section is a must. I use a micrometer,telescope gauge and and an internal dial indicator and lots of pattern paper. Patterns give you the best answer.
bill

I have done quite a few, for an amateur, with good results. I now use a long, centering handle from Brownell's that uses two pilots, in the bore. It works from the breech end and I added a chamber pilot, made from a plastic snap cap. I use an adjustable reamer and a half-turn on the adjusting nut gives me about .002-.003". When I'm about .001-.002" from what I want, I finish it with a brake hone type tool, also from Brownell's. Like Ctroy, I do it because I want to. It's not brain surgery. In the earlier years, I did several from the muzzle, using a guide I made from a 3/8" rod with a plastic jag on the breech end, also with acceptable results. I like to put the barrels in a vise vertically, so there is less likelihood of leaning toward one side or the other. Some had a parallel section originally and some did not. The Lefevers have a continuous taper with no parallel section. This, I think, is where the bogus claim of a continuous taper from the chamber story came from.
If you want a pro, I'd certainly recommend Mike Orlen.

I have read that reaming chokes can possibly set up a chatter or harmonic vibration that can loosen the ribs on doubles. Is there any truth to this?