doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Tightening a Parker Trojan?

Dam6SXS, If you look at it that way you would be right, but I think most anyone would agree that when you look at a SXS you are holding it in the normal position with the barrels pointing away from you.

Pete

Good TIG man can weld up the hook and then fit it in properly with files and such. I've been quoted circa $100 to tighten up a Parker this way.

Researcher knows! Oscar would have tig welded the wedge and shimmed the roll if it wasa a low cost gun. The roll is replaceable but sizes are hard to find. Tig welding is fast (cheap) and does as good as replacing the wedge.

bill

in most cases lever to left of center on right-handed gun means next to nothing. i have seen plenty that were tight and on face with lever left of center. i know next to nothing about mechanics of old parkers so this piece might be different.

When you hold the average dbl with top lever opening in normal position with bbls pointing away, in order to open the gun you push the lever "To Your Right". In all the years I have been involved with dbl shotguns this is the way I have alwys heard it stated,lever to right means a lot of wear left, lever to left means it has a lot of use.
I Do agree with Jagermeister, though. If the gun is on face & bolts tight, do nothing but keep it clean & lubricated & shoot it. Yes PJ, the Parker is like the rest on this account.
Note though that not all dbls have wear compensating bolts (Parker does) & on many the lever simply stops at the center position. I have two dbls more than 100 years old, one British & one German, which have non-compensating bolts, both show considerable use, yet both are on face & bolt solidly. It may just be that compensating bolts induce wear from their greater friction.
These no-compensating bolts simply have parallel surfaces with just enough clearence for the bolt to engage & seem to just go forever with virtually no wear.
Note also bolt wear is not brought on by shooting, but by the rubbing action of opening & closing.

Thank you one and all for the good information.

Miller,
I think some of the well made Brit/Euro guns have such good fits (more area that is actually in contact) on the face and bolt that "wear" is much slower compared to other guns. The German guns I've looked at seemed very well fit on all contact surfaces. If a gun had say 40% contact on face vs. one with 80% contact, the amount of "wear" it could accomodate would be much different.

Oscar used to tig the wedge on all grades and shim the roll on shooters. Finding the correct size roll can be a real problem

Bill

Chuck;
I would not disagree with what you are saying there in the slighest. However understand what I was speaking of was the Bolting itself. Neither of these were JABC's as such nor were they Best's. The English gun is a J P Clabrough & the German one a J P Sauer Knock-About built for VL&D. Both are double underbolted with Doll's Heads. On neither is there any compensation for wear built into the bolts. They do not advance as wear occurs, but both bolts & levers come to a preset stop. They do not have trips for the top lever. but the bolt is cammed rearward by the front lug. In closing if one simply keeps their thumb off the lever & closes the gun smoothly but firmly the bolt can snap home & literally never touch the lug surface. When a compensated bolt wedges home it is highly dependent on being clean & properly lubricated to keep the friction from producing premature wear.
If properly jointed these guns have three surfaces, Doll's Head, Forward face of rear lug & the hook /hinge pin joint to resist the reaward axial thrust of firing.
Both have Deely & Edge forend fastners, thus not one of those ignorant J=Springs keeping the hook & pin under heavy friction for the entire opening & closing cycle.
As I said both are over 100 years old & still tight with "NO" wear compensation built into them.