doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Lubrication

Comments by Chuck H (low load, low surface speed, low cycle application..bacon fat..) and by Rocketman (adheasion to metallic surfaces) rang a bell with me. And they make sense.
I expect for the limited time the gun is actually being fired and the action broken open & closed/'cycled" virtually any lubricant will suffice - as long as it is cleaned off and replaced after each time out at the range or field.
That being said, I'm going to change my hinge pin, hook, knuckle, and fore-end loop lubricant (Brownells Action Lube Plus)to the chain saw oil that I recently ended up getting for the ways on my South Bend "Heavy 10" lathe. The main property of ways oil appears to be its 'stickiness" so that (some) lubricant remains on the angled surfaces of the ways and does not simply slide off downhill. As I did not need the 5 gallon pails of the proper "ways oil" available locally, I looked for a similar lubricant in smaller quantities. Chain saw oil appears to fill the bill - the oil being used on the chain and not in the engine. As it was advertised as being able to remain on the chain under operation, it will stick to the chain and not be flung off by centrifical force it has to be "sticky".
I expect it will do the job. We'll see.

Ian, you have given me an idea: I know I have lying about an aerosol can of bicycle
chain lubricant. That should work well too. Thanks.

Found it. Maxima Chain Wax; "Dries to a waxy film similar in appearance to Cosmoline". Going to try it.

JC(AL)

Wouldn't a thinner oil work better with close tolerences of a fine gun.
Guess if you have a sloppy gun you could grease her up with anything.

JayCee:

The "chain wax" is probably parafin and teflon in suspension. "White Lightning" is a similar chain lube. Bikies used to break their chains, clean in kero and then dip in pure parafin melted in a double boiler. Lots of pins, bushings and side plates in a chain; the theory was less lube value than filling up every space with something BEFORE the road grit got in there. I never experienced bad chain stretch (pin and bushing wear) with this method. The hinge pins of my shotguns are seldom rolling along 10" from the road surface. so I think 3-in-1 mixed with Vaseline is enuf, looks just like RIG, and doesn't loose viscosity as quickly as RIG in hot weather. Also used Lubriplate and Plastilube (that stuff WILL stay where you put it!).

Almost anything is better on barrels and actions (wax, oil) than fingerprints. Someone mentioned Ed's Red. Want to be careful with that stuff around stock finish if it has acetone in the mix.

jack

I like a quality grease in high load spots like hinge pins, hammer notches and cocking or other camming surfaces and a lighter long-lasting oil on sear pivots, hammer pivots and other linkages. I won't argue the grease vs oil conflict, however. I'll merely agree that frequent cleaning of the old and replacing with new, of your choice on the exposed places is surely the most important tactic. I also thank Rocketman for repeating what I have said many times, "neither oil nor grease "attract" dirt. An oft-repeated misconception.As to the mention of "Ed's Red", isn't that a bore cleaner concoction? The question was about lubricantes, no?

I read in I think DGC about vaseline mixed 50/50 with 3 n 1 oil, and neat vasaline for hingepins etc.
I gather it has been used for some years in the gun trade and is fairly inert/neutral stuff so should not damage wood/finishes etc .

Jack, you are right about the chain lube, it is paraffin based. Thank you for the feedback, it is a field where you have a lot of expertise, :-). I shouldn't forget what my old gunsmith used: motor oil.

Jaime you are right about Ed's Red, it is a very good and inexpensive bore cleaner with acetone (that removes the plastic fouling) so it has to be kept away from the stock! Lanolin can be added as an option, but for better long term storing protection. It is not intended as a lubricant.

JC(AL)