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Jul 28th, 2025
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41 |
Some of you may have seen the pics of the 1927 NID Ithaca that I had some questions about a while back. Long story short, the stock doesn't fit me so I'm going to re-stock it and I figured that my chances of getting the color of a new stock to match an old forearm was slim to none so I'm gonna change that out too. My question is, what available stock finish would give me a nice original look? Also would a sunburst pad have been available yet for a gun this old or would it have been just a hard plastic butt plate? I don't know why I need to know this stuff since I plan on keeping/hunting with it but it will bother me to no end if something isn't right on it.
Oh, and here's another question. When looking at guns on various online gun shopping sites, what the heck doe BLNE stand for?
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 112
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 112 |
And we wonder where the kids today get it,LOL,OMG LMAO,etc
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 721
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 721 |
I believe the original finish used by Ithaca in that era was shellac. I Tru-oil, Minwax Antique oil, Permalyn, Watco's Danish oil (available in colors)for a serviceable finish.
BLNE = box lock non-ejector
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,812 |
(B)acon (L)ettuce (N)ot E)ndive OR (B)ox(L)ock (N)on-(E)jector.
jack
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 680
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 680 |
If my memory is correct the Sun Burst pad was introduced in 1928. Before 1928 a Redhead, Jostam, Hawkins (double heart design) or Silvers pad would be appropriate.
Last edited by TwiceBarrel; 07/19/10 09:17 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,961 Likes: 9 |
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,185 Likes: 67
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,185 Likes: 67 |
I had a late (1925) Flues 20ga that had an Ithaca sunburst pad, but may not have been added later.
Last edited by Recoil Rob; 07/20/10 11:02 AM.
My problem lies in reconciling my gross habits with my net income.
- Errol Flynn
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Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,945 Likes: 144
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 5,945 Likes: 144 |
Some of the early 1926 dated NID period Ithaca catalogues stated "oil finish" for the NIDs wood. My first year NID Grade 2 28-gauge has oil finished wood. I believe that early on Ithaca decided to cater to the "gun cranks" of the day and do oil finishes. Pretty soon it must have become clear to them that the majority of customers wanted a shinier shellac/varnish finish on their new gun. Some of the Ithaca paper mentions Duco for the stock finish on their Lefever Nitro Special, but most of the Ithaca descriptions just say "finely finished" except for some of the 1926 dated catalogues which say "finely finished in oil".
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 683
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 683 |
I think oil is never a mistake in finishing wood. You can make it shine highly, or not. Plus it doesn't have "runs" in the finish. It just takes a LONG time, which I'm sure is why they dropped the finish on lots of guns. Shellac/varnish make take one or two at the most coats, while oil takes maybe 20 or so.
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Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 41 |
My local hardware store carries boiled linseed oil so I think I'll try that. I've only used true-oil and brownells custom oil on the few stocks I've refinished so are there any tricks or tips I should know about for applying an oil finish? Would an initial coat of wood sealer be beneficial, and is a stain required or does the wood darken with each coat of oil?
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