doublegunshop.com - home Forums General Discussion DoubleGun BBS @ doublegunshop.com Anyone Used Case Color Laquer?

I picked up a bottle of Galazan's Case Color Laquer - but it arrived without instruction. Anyone? Wipe the surface down with acetone? Will the acetone harm the case color? How many coats? Lightly steel wool between coats?

I bought a 'left over' Launch Edition RBL last winter and was wondering about the clear coat over the case colors. Acetone may not harm the metal, but how about the wood (in case of a spill, etc?) I use a 91% isopropyl alcohol for certain types of cleaning. I wonder if it may be safer?

Rounds' - good point, about the wood. In my case, I have two L.C.s torn down to rehab the stocks, so, I'm not working near the wood. I do, however, want to use the lacquer on some of my assembled guns.
I called Galazan's and they confirmed the use of acetone, and to apply only one very light coat with a Q-tip. I tried that, and the result is quite pleasing, and the metal can be lightly handled in about 30 minutes. This stuff goes a long way and I'll have plenty to apply to my entire arsenal!

The original finish over L.C. Smiths was either varnish or shellac.
To remove true lacquer you need lacquer remover, varnish, mineral spirits, shellac, alcohol.
Most of the stock/forend wood on the lesser grades was shellac, and they went over the metal as well.

I have a bottle of the stuff. My experience is that it has a yellowish cast that I do not care for. Tru-oil works just as well, along with many other products.

Pete

I have even heard Tru-Oil recommended for application over refurbished barrels of twist or Damascus construction. Does that sound right?

Formby's tung oil works great and results in a very smooth, hard finish when dry. Works great on barrels too! I just swab it on thin with a folded paper work towel. I tape off the wood when working close to it. Formby's offers it in either gloss or satin. I prefer the satin though it's still a bit glossy when dry.

Lacquer can be easily removed with a cloth dampened with lacquer thinner. So, when the coating starts looking bad it is easy to remove and renew.

On the other hand, Tru-oil or tung oil, after a full cure, will not be so easily removed. A quick appplication of acetone or lacquer thinner will not do much. You need paint remover( or something else with methylene chloride in it) to get it off.

OB

Here from someone who really knew what he was doing:

"Posted by Oscar Gaddy (Member # 38) on November 16, 2003, 12:58 PM:
 
For some time, I have been using a clear-coat aerosol spray-on lacquer made and sold by Behlens. It is a true cellulose lacquer that you can spray on and have a very uniform coat without bubbles and running with just a little care in application. When you need to redo it, it can easily be removed by merely soaking the parts in acetone. I have been very pleased with it's performance and I use it on all Damascus barrels that I refinish and on some guns that I color caseharden if the owner wants a protective coating.

Whatever you use, I recommend that you completely strip the internal parts and degrease carefully before applying the protective coating. You will then need to lubricate the appropriate parts and places when you reassemble.

Oscar Gaddy"

JC

The small bottles of cellulose lacquer sold in hobby shops works just as well and a small bottle will do a whole bunch of guns. I dilute it 50/50 with lacquer thinner and apply two coats with a camel hair artists brush.