I agree with Brent about the lockplate corner.
In addition, I'd make the lockplate wood panel front and back end outlines so that they more closely match the curve of the rear of the lockplate; not a perfect match, the ends will naturally need to be extended somewhat in an elongated oval like your existing wood rear curve only made a little more blunt to match the rear curve of the steel.
IOW I like the way you've formed the front of the wood panel and the rear of the lockplate and I think it would look even better with the lockplate top front corner rounded off and the rear of the wood panel made a little blunter; not much blunter, just a smidgen (grin).
What lock are you using, and what did you do to the hammer nose?
You might consider adding a little fillip to the top curve of the hammer nose like the fancier ones, IMO it really adds character.
I plan to add a stalking safety to my TD project but haven't done the alteration before. It seems like a lotta work but I guess I'll find out!
Regards, Joe
