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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 677 Likes: 14
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 677 Likes: 14 |
Interesting. That flies in the face of everything I've learned regarding ArmorAll and it's detrimental effects on finishes of any kind on any surface. I've paid Billy-hell chasing fisheyes in varnished and painted surfaces caused by careless people spraying that stuff (and WD-40) in the vicinity. Call me a Nervous Nellie but I would need more proof before I let it anywhere near a fine woodworking project, gunstock or otherwise.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 677 Likes: 14
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 677 Likes: 14 |
I did a little research and found that it's the driers in ArmorAll that speed up the polymerization of the oil finish, but at the risk of going hazy with time. Re-ArmorAlling at that point will rejuvenate it briefly, but without any depth to the finish. I think I'll avoid it.
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Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,153
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,153 |
I use Japan Drier, works OK but nothing REALLY dries out down here...... Regards, Joe
You can lead a man to logic but you can't make him think. NRA Life since 1976. God bless America!
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 398 Likes: 19
Sidelock
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OP
Sidelock
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 398 Likes: 19 |
I tried it on a scrap piece of walnut, two straight coats of Watco (first coat slightly thinned with turpentine) soaked in and dried over about one week each. Then the "magic elixer" coats. Seemed to work OK I would NOT use it on bare dry wood.
Dumb, but learning...Prof Em, BSc(ME), CAE (FYI)
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,405 Likes: 16
Sidelock
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Sidelock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,405 Likes: 16 |
Denatured alcohol works for Tru-oil. Still requires cure time...
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